JULIE BIUSO

In salads, roasted in a traybake, crushed with garlicky vinaigrette, steamed or boiled, new potatoes sing with summer flavour. Here’s how to make the most of the sensational spud

In season: new potatoes.

New potatoes are a rich source of vitamin C

Back in the day, ‘new potatoes’ referred to potatoes dug up in spring, or specifically for the Christmas table. Dirt was washed off under the tap and the paper-thin skin often came away with it. Everyone had their favourite type of new potato to grow or look out for, but over a period of time Jersey Bennes emerged as the country’s favourite. Originating from a kidney-shaped variety grown and made famous on the island of Jersey, known as the Jersey Royal, Jersey Bennes appear in mid-to-late spring and carry on through summer. The best, many claim, are grown in the fertile soils of Kakanui in north Otago.

New potatoes have a higher water content than potatoes harvested later in the season, with a waxy, somewhat sticky, texture. It’s that stickiness that holds them together after cooking, making them the perfect choice for slicing and for dishes where you want potatoes to stay whole rather than turn to a purée.

Most instructions for boiling potatoes suggest starting them in cold water and bringing them slowly to the boil. That allows time for the water to heat gently and to slowly penetrate the centre of the potato so it cooks evenly all the way through (don’t you hate it when potatoes disintegrate on the outside yet remain uncooked in the centre?). New potatoes have a different makeup – the sugars haven’t yet converted to starch – and they can be given the hurry-up by starting cooking in hot water. Once they’re barely tender, drain, then return them to the pan and drape with paper towels. The paper towels absorb clinging water, preventing the potatoes from becoming slimy, and they finish off cooking in the steam.

For steamed potatoes, lift out the steamer basket after cooking, pour off the water, set the basket back over the pan and cover with paper towels as described. The potatoes will stay nice and hot for several minutes. If serving in a salad, remove paper towels after 2-3 minutes and cool quickly on a board.

Whatever the end treatment, I favour steaming over boiling. New potatoes are a rich source of vitamin C, and little is lost during steaming while a lot is poured down the sink after boiling. Steaming also produces a drier potato that is better for frying or using in salads.

Mint is fabulous with new potatoes; it has a growth spurt at the end of winter and at the beginning of spring it’s thick and lush. Chives, tarragon, parsley, chervil and coriander also work well, with either butter or olive oil. Butter can be flavoured with creamy Dijonnaise or seedy mustard, finely chopped shallot, smoked paprika, sliced black garlic and other flavourings to ring the changes.

Potato mayonnaise is a much-loved combo. Use a fresh-egg mayo or a good ready-made brand. If the mayonnaise is too thick, thin with water – or lemon juice if it needs more acidity. Add fresh tarragon, creamy Dijonnaise mustard if you have it, and toss with just-cooled cubed potatoes (keep them whole if they’re small). Serve with a roast chicken cooked until falling off the bone and still warm, and a leafy salad. To the basic potato-mayo salad, add thinly sliced celery, a spoonful of finely chopped shallot, and scatter with a handful of podded broad beans and baby peas. Or warm a dozen or so shredded snow peas in a pan with lemon-infused olive oil, crushed garlic and chilli flakes, mound on top of the salad and scatter with black sesame seeds.