SOUND BITES
dish editor Sarah Tuck sets sail with foodies, artists and conservationists to help protect native species in Dusky Sound.
dish editor Sarah Tuck sets sail with a motley crew of foodies, artists and conservationists to help protect native species in Dusky Sound. Three days of snorkelling, feasting and revelling later, she brings us the edited highlights of her nautical adventure
It had all the makings of a rollicking good Agatha Christie murder mystery – a magazine editor, two famous chefs, a renowned artist, a culinary tutor, a videographer, an author and film maker, two environmentalists, a couple of softly spoken bush men, a boat crew and a skipper with a severe allergy to cooked crayfish off on a three-day adventure in the middle of nowhere… with no cell phone or wifi coverage.
What would be on the menu? What would we do with all our freshly cooked crays?
And would we all (happily) survive the close quarters of boat life with such disparate vocations and backgrounds?
Let me start by answering the last question first. Yes. Not only did we survive, over three days we became firm friends, united by our love of the beauty surrounding us, and our admiration for the team aboard M.V. Flightless, passionately pursuing the rat population of Indian Island/mamaku in order to protect, preserve and repopulate the land with native species.
Remote Tamatea/dusky Sound, New Zealand’s largest fiord, is located on the west coast of the South Island, and while you might expect it to be teeming with wildlife, one of the first things you notice (once the choppers have departed), is the relative silence. The damage done by stoats and rats, which were introduced in the 1700s, has been immense, and the quiet bush is a hushed reminder, with every bird call celebrated as a sign of new life.
Thanks to the consistent efforts of environmentalists such as Flightless captain Seán Ellis and his right-hand woman, Maria Kuster, the ecosystem of the area is gradually (and successfully) being restored. Seán and Maria are the operators of Pure Salt, a Fiordland based charter boat operation (puresalt.co.nz), and it is with them that our adventure unfolded.
LIFE AQUATIC
The vessel was well equipped with cabins, snug bunks, tidy, spacious bathrooms and a central hanging-out area well-stocked with board games and cards for cosy, fun-filled evenings indoors, and a heated spa pool with arguably the best view in the country, located on the upper deck.
During the day, options for water-based activities were endless – fishing, scuba diving, kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkelling were all on offer. On land, hunting was an option, as was walking the beautiful National
Options for water-based activities were endless – fishing, scuba diving, kayaking, paddle boarding and snorkelling
On the menu were the best mussel fritters in the universe, blue cod cooked in a parcel made of thick, strong seaweed, kina and paua
Park trails surrounded by temperate rainforest with stunning views at every turn.
There were short, easy tracks and more taxing day-long options, as well as the opportunity to become involved with the Pure Salt-initiated project to remove pests from Indian Island/ Mamaku. Those who wish to can check, set, and rebait impressively high-tech rat traps, dotted over much of the island, although if that isn’t your cup of tea and you are keen to volunteer or contribute in some way, there is ample opportunity to participate in the project through the purchase of traps or traplines, or through donations via the New Zealand Parks & Conservation Foundation (nationalparks.org.nz/ donations.cfm).
If relaxing with a good book is more your style, bean bags are set out, ready to settle into with a pot of tea and selection of freshly made biscuits to hand.
FALSIES AND FLIPPERS
We began our adventure by diving in – quite literally. Despite the fact I still had some fairly impressive false eyelashes steadfastly glued on (from an event the night before), I wriggled into my wetsuit, slipped into my flippers, fastened on my mask and set off snorkelling, joined by chef Josh Emett, conservationist Sam (the Trap Man) Gibson, writer and documentary film maker Peta Carey, volunteer Sandy Tully, and captain Seán.
I was happy to paddle about, mesmerised by the beauty above and below the water while the others brought up impressive bounty with skill and speed
– the crayfish, paua and mussels were abundant, but the team were careful only to take what was sure to be eaten
(fatal allergies notwithstanding).
My greatest contribution was entertainment value as I was hauled back onto the dinghy – landing face-first into a fish that had been caught earlier, mask-proof lashes still attached.
The three days quickly settled into a rhythm as we set off in groups to hike
(and check and rebait the Indian island rat traps), kayaked, fished, snorkelled and feasted like kings on the bounty caught by the more adept among us.
Cooking duties were shared among Josh, Kiwi cooking icon Fleur Sullivan of Fleur’s Place and Chris Smith, senior culinary arts lecturer at Otago Polytechnic as well as the talented galley crew.
Each evening Fleur would decorate the table with her day’s findings – twigs and shells, wildflowers and fruit artfully arranged with her magic touch.
On the menu were simply prepared crayfish with aioli, what I firmly believe to be the best mussel fritters in the universe, blue cod cooked in a parcel made of thick, strong seaweed, kina and paua – the freshest possible seafood, enjoyed with zero waste, in the most incredible surroundings imaginable.
By our third evening on board the banter equalled that of a group of raucous old mates, rather than new acquaintances. There is something so special about getting away from it all, surrounded by exquisite nature and the sea, with the added benefit of contributing to a valuable cause – I couldn’t recommend it highly enough.
GETTING AROUND
To experience the magic of Tamatea/
Dusky Sound is straightforward; either (like me) by joining with a group of yet-to-be introduced friends organised by Pure Salt, or by chartering the boat for a group to create a bespoke adventure. Access to the M.V. Flightless is via Te Anau and then by helicopter into Fiordland.
We feasted like kings on dishes such as cajun-spiced mussels (see recipe page 48)