RIO DE JANEIRO
One of 2014’s top travel destinations due to the upcoming World Cup (don’t let that put you off ), Rio earns its reputation as one of the most stunning cities in the world. It boasts world famous beaches, a natural lagoon and lush mountain greenery. That’s not to mention the natural beauty of its people, who are the best advertisement for genetic engineering if ever there were one.
American expat Sam runs the gay-friendly Gringo Café in Ipanema, the epicentre of gay life in Rio. With his multiracial background, Sam says in the USA he never felt like he fitted in whereas, as he puts it, “everyone fits in Brazil”. Now his Gringo Café can even accommodate Brazil’s first boy band, P9, for fan signings (1,000 screaming girls and some boys showed up). This is Rio – exciting, unpredictable and always on the sexy side of things. The constant sound in Rio these days, however, is not the samba or the bossa nova, but jackhammers, drills and cranes in construction mode as the city prepares to host the 2016 Summer Olympics.
Contrary to expectations, Rio, if not all of Brazil, is ridiculously expensive. It’s expensive to eat out, to shop, to go out and to find accommodation. That’s the downside of the Brazilian economy doing so well. The upside for tourists is that it’s made this country, especially Rio, much safer than it has probably ever been. Forget any trepidation about being mugged, robbed, kidnapped or worse. Crime rates are dropping as the standard of living increases. You may even safely venture into one of the favelas (shantytowns) on a tour where you will find life is not as dangerous as it once notoriously was.
Another intriguing phenomenon here in this sunshine-loving city you’ll quickly notice is that everyone is wearing braces. It’s a status symbol here, replacing the flashy car and plastic surgery. Another thing that may surprise you about Rio is the lack of any decent nightlife. This is a city very much centred on the beach, sunshine and daylight hours. The biggest gay club in the city, The Week, closed for “reconstruction” and is not expected to reopen until sometime later in the year, if ever. There are various theme parties held once a month that keep things bubbling, plus The Galleria, a small club that’s more provincial than you would expect from an international city. Rio is, as a hunky Hungarian in tight white swimwear informed me on the sands of Ipanema, “a great place for the beach at day and night”. He’d spent the previous evening in the same spot skinnydipping with a sexy Brazilian. So if it’s wild nightlife you’re after in this city, keep your speedos handy and head back to the beach after dark.
When it rains in Rio (which it often does, being so tropical) there’s not much to do. Everyone stays indoors and Rio’s nightlife becomes private parties. As you would expect, cocaine is extremely prevalent and very cheap, perhaps the only affordable thing left in Brazil, besides the escorts who frequent the Le Boy sauna.
To maximize your time in Rio, top up your tan at Ipanema where the gays congregate. Copacabana has the famous name (and the campy Barry Manilow disco song), but is very straight. Most of the time the locals, called Cariocas, are playing footvolley, the new national sporting craze which is basically football with a volleyball, as you might have suspected. Copacabana Beach is good for a look and a photo op, but you don’t need to linger.
Carnaval is February 28 to March 4 this year if wearing feathers and sequins and not much else is your thing. To avoid the heat of day, the Carnaval procession goes from very late in the night to very early in the morning with >>
>> nobody getting any sleep. In case you’re wondering how gay it is, rent Kristen Bjorn’s seminal Carnaval In Rio porn flick, which even 20 years ago proved what a gay and gay-friendly place Carnaval can be (not to mention filthy).
Another must-do beside the beaches in Rio is visit the Christ The Redeemer ( Cristo Redentor) statue atop Corcovado Mountain. Considered the largest Art Deco statue in the world, it was also named one of the New Seven Wonders Of The World. Even if you’re not religious, it’s inspiring. More impressively, the best panoramic view of Rio is from on top of the mountain. It’s well worth the trip, but go early in the morning for the best photo opportunities and also so you have beach time left in the afternoon. Sugarloaf Mountain ( Pão de Açúcar), the other big attraction in the city with its cable car, is also a good morning or afternoon out in the sunshine. Time to go to