BESPOKE JEWELLERY
A BESPOKE JEWELLER CAN HELP CREATE A SPECIAL WEDDING OR ENGAGEMENT RING THAT REFLECTS EVERYTHING THAT’S UNIQUE ABOUT YOU AND YOUR RELATIONSHIP. BRONWYN CARABEZ EXPLAINS SOME OF THE FINER POINTS TO NOEL POSUS.
DNA: Please describe the process of the consultation when people come to see you for a bespoke jewellery design. Bronwyn: The first thing we do is have a bit of a chat and I get to know them to see what they have in mind – what’s the occasion? What concepts do they have? I ask them what they like, what they don’t like, I make some suggestions and we start to build the design.
After that, and there are usually a few consultations once we have the design, I bring in the raw materials. If it’s a diamond ring I bring in some diamonds. I try to educate people so that when they walk out of here they know something of cut, colour, clarity and carat weight so they are making very informed decisions.
You have an office rather than a showroom full of glass cabinets of jewellery.
Yes, you don’t see jewellery cabinets because this is a bespoke service and we really need this private office space for the consultation. You don’t see any bling but you do get a oneon-one consultation with no hard sell. And that’s also how I keep my prices down; my bespoke service is probably cheaper than a jeweller’s because I don’t have all the overhead costs of stock and a showroom.
How long is the process from design to actually being able to wear the piece? Generally, between two to four weeks depending on how complex the design is. All our jewellery is hand made, but if there’s an emergency we will fit it in and make it happen. What’s a jewellery emergency?
Oh, sometimes people want to get engaged and
the in-laws are in town next week! But every piece is hand made and every piece must be perfect. If I see something I don’t like I send it back to the workshop.
Are their budgetary considerations when having a bespoke piece made?
I work to people’s budget, whatever that is. I never go over it.
Do people bring in photos and sketches of what they have in mind?
Yes, most people come in with a fairly good idea of what they’d like.
How do you make that work practically within the craft of jewellery making? Sometimes I have to explain that some ideas aren’t structurally possible, so I encourage them to tweak it. But if they have their ideas and it’s possible, I make it. If I show it to them at the end and it’s not what they want, I remake it. As I said, it has to be perfect; it’s my reputation. Do people bring heirloom pieces and old stones that they want refashioned?
A lot. If it’s a family heirloom we have to be very considerate with how we treat it. I’m working on a piece from the 1920s at the moment and it’s got what we call an easy solder on it, which has a very low melting point so we are being very careful. With an heirloom piece the customer needs to remember that it’s been worn for a long time. It won’t wear like a new piece of jewellery. It’s like driving an antique car.
What are some of the current trends in men’s jewellery that you are seeing?
With men there are two streams. Some men want very simple designs – just plain gold or two tones of gold with different cuts, shapes and textures. Then there’s men who want a gemstone or diamond and they tend to want a channel settling or pave set piece. Another trend among men is that some like a diamond inside the band so only they know it’s there, it’s a little secret.
And with gay couples?
Since marriage equality I’m getting quite a few inquiries for wedding and engagement rings. With gay male couples I find they may want the same ring but one is a slight variation on the other. I wouldn’t say there is a strong trend among couples. It’s all very individual.
You must hear some very romantic stories? Yes. I have a couple, let’s call them Steven and Julian. Julian loves lighthouses, so Steven arranged a boat ride with some friends for a day trip. They pulled up at the beach and the decoy friend suggested they climb the lighthouse. Half way up, the friend said he wasn’t feeling great with the height and for Julian to keep going. At the top of the lighthouse, Steven was waiting with the ring and he proposed. I love that story. It may be too gushy for some but I think it’s romantic.
With gay couples I find they may want the same ring but one is a slight variation on the other.