LOST IN AUSTIN
Austin offers a surprisingly alterna-hip and rainbow-inclusive slice of Texan life.
The southern American state of Texas is not known for being liberal, freewheeling or LGBTfriendly. Its capital, Austin, however, offers a surprisingly alterna-hip and rainbow-inclusive slice of Texan life.
Cowboy hats, line-dancing and spare rib stacks – that might be all that comes to mind when you think of Texas, but its chilled, hipster capital, Austin, defies the stereotypes of the Lone Star State. The city of Austin is very much a big country town. Yes, there are plenty of shops selling cowboy hats (the right hat on the right cowboy is a thing of beauty), record stores (country music is king) and, of course, boot scootin’ emporiums! It is known as the music lover’s city and the live music capital of the world.
With just under a million inhabitants, it’s actually the fastest growing city in the US and is the 11th biggest US city overall.
Because Austin is not quite a sprawling conurbation, yet, it’s relatively easy to get around. This city not only accommodates but welcomes bicycles, scooters and good oldfashioned walking. After a bit of a turbulent start, the concept of electronic scooters has been embraced and there’s a multitude of options to choose from lying around the city streets. Just scan and ride an e-scooter. It’s not as cheap as calling an Uber if there are two or more of you, but infinitely more fun.
If you’re staying downtown where most of the big name same-same hotels are, you’ll immediately want to venture out to hipster
South Congress (SoCo) directly across the bridge to the southern edge of town.
South Congress is a fun, friendly, popular walking street with vintage shops and boho cafés. Check out the South Congress and St Cecelia Hotels, which are both suuuuuper chic. While we were in town there was a massive gay-lovin’ billboard on the main drag featuring out Olympic hottie, Gus Kenworthy and the love of his life – his dog Daisy.
This is where Austin’s famous “weirdness” can be appreciated at its goofiest and sweetest. Fancy dress shops and gaudy candy shops battle for prominence on the main street besides more sedate locals. If you’re hungry to know more, head to Café NoSe right in the heart of SoCo and try their scrumptious Cowboy Breakfast consisting of pulled pork, eggs of your choice, and a jalapeno pepper that will literally blow your mind!
Austin has embraced the food trucks craze – cheap, cheerful and plenty of exotic flavours you probably haven’t yet explored but should. There’s no better place to venture into TexMex territory, the localised refashioning of Mexican cuisine. Z’Tejas Southwestern Grill was recommended to us by the locals and it sure delivered. For starters, you’re given,
The Iron Bear Bar is a mix of American college football, Madonna house remixes and genderneutral pool tables.
free of charge, the best cornbread you’ve ever eaten straight out of the oven. We managed to prize the secret ingredients out of their pursed lips and were surprised to find it’s curdled buttermilk and organic honey. Shhhh!
Austin’s other major culinary trend or, more accurately, tradition, is barbecue. Don’t let the massive queues at Terry Black’s or Cooper’s Old School BBQ put you off. They’re worth the wait. You’ll want to order a huge slab of brisket (a slow cooked cut of succulent beef) lovingly dunked in barbecue sauce. This is a true meat lover’s paradise – even the green beans are saturated in meat pieces.
You’ll need some time to recover from all this indulgence and where better to go for some healthier options than Whole Food Markets… and not just any Whole Food Markets. This is the city where the now-global concern was founded and the huge central Whole Foods Market location will keep your eyes, ears and mouth busy for some time.
With your hunger satisfied, it’s time to head out and explore Austin’s renowned nightlife. “Keep Austin Weird” has long been a slogan of the town, meant to promote its eccentricity and diversity, especially in relation to its LGBT-friendliness. Locals are known as Austinites and let’s not forget that this city overwhelmingly voted for Hilary Clinton over Donald Trump in 2016. Hence, if you’re gay and alive in Texas, your best bet is probably to live in Austin.
The Iron Bear Bar is a mix of American college football on TV screens, Madonna house remixes and gender-neutral pool tables. Located on 8th and Colorado, it allows you to glimpse the sexier, dirtier, raunchier side of Austin, but with a little less testosterone than in most of the other big North American cities.
Gay drinking holes are mainly concentrated downtown on 4th Street and Lavaca. Oilcan Harry’s has great drag shows with a mini theatre area. Drag Race alumni, Yvie Oddly was playing the week we were in town. There’s also a sports bar attached with hot southern chilledout guys.
Another bar-hopping option is Rain, which is more lounge/dance floor, while Highland is the current clubbing mecca with pounding beats, blinding lights and hot Austinites ready to cheer you up with their six packs.
In the summer there’s a major lake, river and pool scene, too, so pack accordingly (resort wear / swimwear) with plenty of changes of
outfit. There are over 50 swimming pools in the Austin city limits, which is “a thing” according to those who know about these, er, things.
For animal lovers, the bridge from downtown to South Congress is also famous for its bats, which fly out at sundown during the summer months.
Of course, for many people, Austin is all about the music. A good starting point is The East Side, which, in general, is the edgy, chill, hipster side of town with super cute cafés and music-centric coffee shops. If you’re a diehard music buff, don’t miss one of the world’s rarest treasures – a proper record store called Waterloo. Not only do they stock CDs, videos and vinyl, but all kinds of music related paraphernalia. We found classic albums being literally given away for 99c!
Meanwhile, 6th Street is the famous music venue area in town. The city hosts the world’s biggest music biz festival every year in March, South By Southwest, and has become a hub for new musical forms, hybrids and “turbo wackadoodle” stuff, as my Austinite pal likes to put it. The Native Hotel has a great café and a revolving rostor of bands and events.
Austin is not a city that rests – leave that to the sleepier Texan towns. If you’re looking for something kooky, offbeat and gay-welcoming, Austin has the vibe.
2020 IN AUSTIN
April: Austin Food + Wine Festival. August: Austin Pride Parade and Festival. September: All Genders, Lifestyles And Identities Film Festival.
Oilcan Harry’s has great drag shows and hot, southern chilledout guys.