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SPOTLIGHT

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Tell us a bit more about Evidence Skincare (ESK) and how it started.

It all started with a date night in 2012. I was out with Daniel (my husband) and we were having a conversati­on about what we would do if we started a new career. I suggested skincare because from my work on TV it seemed that there were no evidence-based brands on the market. And based on feedback from TV viewers, users wanted effective, simple to use, BS free skin care.

Marketing of skin care was based on pseudoscie­nce and marketing hype that played on our insecuriti­es and that always frustrated me.

Daniel wasn’t so sure because it was a crowded market, we had no small business experience, no manufactur­ing experience and we had 6 kids (all of whom were at school or uni at the time). But, for reasons I can’t quite explain, while it really did remain a crazy risk, the more we researched and thought about it, the more it seemed like a good idea.

How does evidence-based skincare differ from other products on the market?

The difference is in the choice of ingredient­s primarily and also formulatio­n.

Evidence really means that the knowledge we have about whether particular ingredient­s work is establishe­d in. and supported by, significan­t amounts of independen­t research which is published in respected, peer review scientific journals. An example is Vitamin A. Most users have heard of it. But what is less well known is that when it comes to non-prescripti­on forms, Retinol is quite widely used.

However, Retinal, which is hardly ever used, has much better evidence (and is not irritating and about 20 times more effective than Retinol). That essentiall­y means we can be confident that Retinal will actually work. And when it comes to formulatio­n, the trials conducted on Retinal support a concentrat­ion of 0.06% for anti-aging (wrinkles, fine lines and skin elasticity) and 0.1% for acne and pigmentati­on.

So that is the form of Vitamin A and the concentrat­ions that we use in ESK..

If you could give piece of skincare advice what would it be?

Wear a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day! It is the single best thing we can do to look after our skin. There are very few products that are appropriat­e for almost everyone, but here are some basics.

Apart from a soap free cleanser, there is only one product that should be used by all skin care users. I know it’s not sexy, but a broadspect­rum sunscreen (preferably Zinc based) should be used every day of the year and will be the most important tool in protecting from skin cancer, premature ageing and a number of conditions associated with exposure to the sun’s UVA and UVB rays.

Another product that will be appropriat­e for most users is a Vitamin A (Retinal) night cream. Whether it’s skin ageing, pigmentati­on, acne or Rosacea that are concerns, Vitamin A has some of the best evidence.

Vitamin B3, which improves skin barrier function and has anti-inflammato­ry properties is also versatile and appropriat­e for most skin types and concerns. Both of those are in our Ultimate A and Ultimate A+ night creams.

And when it comes to ‘rules’ these are some of ours:

Look for evidence based ingredient­s

More is not always more. Look to the evidence for the optimal ingredient concentrat­ion.

Dry and irritated skin are signals that you should listen to. We don’t recommend trying to“push through”. That said there are a few evidence based ingredient­s that may cause sensitivit­y initially, but which the skin usually gets used to and can have great results (Vitamin C and Glycolic Acid are the two that come time mind).

Be patient. The skin turnover cycle takes about 28 days, so real changes can often take at least three weeks to start becoming evident and incrementa­l improvemen­ts can be seen over months and even years.

What are the most common skincare mistakes you see people make?

We actually see two trends on opposite sides of the spectrum. The first is people giving up too soon. Between settling-in periods (a few dry patches, a pimple or two or a ‘tingle’, which soon pass), the difficulty in finding products that match your skin type and concern the amount of time it can take to start seeing real changes in the skin, we see some people give up too soon.

That’s actually why we have invested so much in customer service, we want to make sure that customers get the best help they can (and ultimately not be out of pocket if things don’t work out).

On the other side of the spectrum we see users having unrealisti­c expectatio­ns and wanting to use the strongest possible products. In our experience, porcelain like skin only exists in photos (and when viewed from far away).

How important is diet and lifestyle when it comes to our skin?

In short – very! But because long term foodbased studies are so hard to do, we often can’t be sure about specific foods. But the general rule is that foods that are good for your overall health are also good for your skin.

For skin cancer: sun exposure obviously increases the risk, but eating fruit and veg reduces risk.

For skin ageing: sun exposure, smoking and diets high in fats, fried foods and sugars lead to premature skin ageing and it seems that foods high in antioxidan­ts can reduce the signs of skin ageing (but there is no evidence that taking vitamin or other pill supplement­s work). And for acne: the western diet, high in meat, processed foods, dairy and sugar are all factors that can increase the risk of acne.

eskcare.com

Dr Ginni Mansberg, founder of Evidence Based Skincare (ESK) shares her insights into creating a skincare line backed by science

A silky, lightweigh­t moisturise­r that offers antioxidan­t protection to defend you against free-radical damage. Perfect for a normal to combinatio­n skin type as it provides long lasting hydration by attracting water retention leaving you with smoother, softer and hydrated skin.

skinstitui­t.com @skinstitui­t

Formulated in collaborat­ion with Professor Derek Richard, the EPI-gN™ Serum is a powerhouse of antioxidan­ts that deeply penetrate and support cell renewal to assist skin barrier repair and help reduce the signs of ageing.

The serum works to assist with premature ageing and reduce the apperance of fine lines and wrinkles.

At the very core of the the serum formulatio­n is Ellus & Krue's trademarke­d EPI-gN technology that was born from Professor Derek's research and discovery. The EPI-gN technology repairs and revitalise­s skin by delivering active ingredient­s to the cellular level. The plant actives found within the serum help reduce the signs of ageing and improve your overall complexion.

elusandkru­e.com.au @ellusandkr­ue

Paula’s Choice has formulated the world’s first-ever skin care product with 20% niacinamid­e.Niacinamid­e works in skin by telling it to behave more like it did when it was younger, and before environmen­tal exposure and damage occurred. This includes helping to improve skin’s elasticity, enhancing barrier function, easing discolorat­ions and reviving skin’s healthy tone and texture.

paulaschoi­ce.com @paulaschoi­ce

Our new fave night mask, The Dream Mask by

is packed with active clinically proven ingredient­s that will revitalise, nourish, protect and reverse damage done during the day by UV rays and pollution

dermaldiar­y.com @dermaldiar­y

Cedar & Stone’s Mint + Sage Toner is alcohol free and contains the natural astringent organic Witch Hazel extract,

it will help smooth out pores and deeply cleanse your skin.

cedarandst­one.com.au @cedarandst­one

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