eat.live.escape

Let It Snow!

- WORDS Melinda Healy

Dreaming about a White Christmas? A European winter may not be on the cards this year but get planning for 2021 and an escape to the beautiful Swiss Alps.

Snow-capped mountains clustered together within a dramatic landscape, the jagged peaks packed with pistes and promise. This is winter in the Swiss Alps - magical and magnificen­t.

Whether venturing into luxury resort territory in glamorous St Moritz or settling into a remote chalet somewhere like Zermatt, which sits at the bottom of the highest mountains, one thing’s for sure, memories made in this incredible region of Europe are guaranteed to make their way on to the ‘bestof ’ showreel for years to come.

“It truly is the postcard you imagined,” Swiss local Tamara Loeffel-Jager tells me proudly, adding: “Magical is the word.”

That magic she speaks of begins with the region’s overabunda­nce of incredible adventure playground­s and extends to experience­s that include enjoying cheese fondue using locally sourced Swiss cheese under the stars; soaking in thermal saunas overlookin­g landmarks like the Matterhorn (one of the highest peaks in Europe); admiring the twinkling Christmas lights at the annual markets; skiing the multitude of challengin­g pistes; sipping local wine in front of a crackling open fireplaces; skating on iced-over lakes; and capturing the beauty of the picture-perfect vistas on camera.

Ms Loeffel-Jager lives and works in the canton of Graubunden, the country’s largest and easternmos­t region. It is home to highend destinatio­ns like Davos, Lenzerheid­e and St Moritz.

“I love to spend Christmas in the snow,” the marketing profession­al says. “St Moritz is always my first pick when it comes to the holiday season. Its high altitude guarantees a lot of snowfall - all the hotels and boutiques compete with each other for the most extravagan­t Christmas display.”

While the smaller village markets and lighting displays are as full of Christmas spirit as their bigger counterpar­ts, Zurich has perhaps the best markets in the Alps. It hosts at least half a dozen grand-scale offerings including Europe’s largest indoor market, the Christkind­limarkt, which is held in the city’s main railway station and is centred around a tree that’s decked out with 7,000 Swarovski crystals.

Across the Alpine region visitors can explore 937 mountain summits, 150 valleys, 615 lakes, and with just 26 inhabitant­s per square kilometre, tourists can enjoy the luxury of space while taking in the eye-watering beauty.

“The ski slopes are endless in our canton, we can spend weeks without having to do the same slopes twice,” says Ms LoeffelJag­er. “The food scene is fantastic too, and Graubunden is the second largest wine producer in Switzerlan­d.”

Not everyone opts for a holiday packed with perfect pistes though, many also seek out the country’s wellness/medical retreats, of which there are plenty.

Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is the epitome of luxury, and attracts some high-end clientele including former Swiss tennis ace Martina Hingis, who is one of the ambassador­s for the property.

In her youth, Hingis trained with her mother at the nearby tennis centre, then during her successful on-court career, the “Swiss Miss” found time in between winning her 25 Grand Slam titles to frequently return to the resort that’s an hours drive from Zurich and within walking distance of Tamina Gorge - the source of the 36.5-degree waters that have made Bad Ragaz world famous.

“Thermal water should always and everywhere be used,” suggests in-house dermatolog­ist Brigitte Bollinger when asked about the benefits. “In particular, by the temperatur­e of the water, an increased circulatio­n in the body is achieved, which stimulates both the fine mind of thought and the desire for physical activity.”

Food is another of the country’s indulgence­s, the Grand Resort Bad Ragaz alone boasts eight dining establishm­ents. Among them there are four Michelin stars and 76 GaultMilla­u points.

Emma Hodgson has been a regular visitor to Switzerlan­d for years. The British expat who currently lives in Dubai has extended family who own a chalet in Zermatt, in the southern canton of Valais, and her father has long been a ski enthusiast, which has rubbed off on the communicat­ions profession­al.

“Zermatt is probably one of the most remote of all the Swiss Alp destinatio­ns, it takes several train journeys up into the mountains from Zurich or Geneva Airport to get there,” she says. It’s the little things that pique her interests and jog her memories, she admits. “I love the smell of wood in the traditiona­l Swiss Alpine lodges I’ve stayed in at Christmas, it’s a similar smell to a sauna with the fire crackling.”

There are some great hotels in the mountains too, many of them offering spectacula­r views, according to Hodgson. “When I was 21 we were staying in a hotel that had an entire glass wall in the sauna that looked out onto the Alps, they had an outdoor hot tub with a similar view.”

Although she spends most of the year in warmer climes these days - Dubai often reaches temperatur­es in the 50s in the summer - Hodgson often makes a trip to Europe any chance she gets and has some valuable tips for anyone planning their own trip.

“Switzerlan­d is an expensive country to stay in,” she says. “Having your own kitchen space in your accommodat­ion can save you a lot of money, as can choosing to shop at local supermarke­ts. They are usually stocked with French wine at reasonable prices, it’s better to pick them over the Italian, German or Swiss alternativ­es.”

When it comes to transport, train travel is the ideal mode. “The Swiss train system is one of the best in Europe, expect scenic views as you travel from the airport to the mountains.”

The Glacier Express is a panoramic rail journey that skirts the Alpine heartland and passes by rivers, in between mountains and meadows. The stretch between Chur and Zermatt takes around six hours and passes by Disentis, Andermatt and Brig. So, what are you waiting for?

“The ski slopes are endless in our canton, we can spend weeks without having to do the same slopes twice”

 ??  ?? Image: Emma Hodgson
Image: Emma Hodgson
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 ??  ?? CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Dining with a view; hundreds of ski slopes are a snow-lovers paradise; cosy dining options by a roaring fire; a thermal bath is perfect to soak sore muscles after a day on the slopes; Emma enjoying a glass of wine apres-ski.
IMAGES Courtesy of Emma Hodgson & Geraat.ulivbeu.ensdceanpe­Tour9is1m
CLOCKWISE, FROM TOP LEFT Dining with a view; hundreds of ski slopes are a snow-lovers paradise; cosy dining options by a roaring fire; a thermal bath is perfect to soak sore muscles after a day on the slopes; Emma enjoying a glass of wine apres-ski. IMAGES Courtesy of Emma Hodgson & Geraat.ulivbeu.ensdceanpe­Tour9is1m

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