spotlight on south-east asia
SOUTHEAST ASIA Skip the crowds (and expense) of a European summer and discover the hidden wonders closer to home
Some of the world’s chicest stays are right on our doorstep.
COMO POINT YAMU, PHUKET
There’s a certain level of luxury that you expect when you book a stay at a Como property, and its Phuket outpost, a 35-minute drive southeast from the airport to Point Yamu, lives up to the hype. Located within a private housing estate that’ll have you picking your ultimate holiday house as your transfer drives through the streets and up towards the hotel’s grandiose lobby, the 79-room property looks out across the tidal waters of the Andaman Sea. It’s a decent drive into the busier parts of Phuket – half an hour to Old Phuket Town, 50 minutes to Patong – but if your vacation MO is as lowkey as they come, there’s enough on offer around the hotel to simply kick back and enjoy the fact that you’re downing a mojito in sunny Thailand and your “out of office” is well and truly switched on.
The resort’s features are up there with the best: the Como Shambhala wellness centre provides massages, facials, exercise classes and the like, and the hotel’s main pool is divided into sections according to whether you’re there to swim, float, cannonball and so on. Through the resort you can book a day trip to Phi Phi Island, go deep-sea diving or borrow bikes to ride through Yamu Village, but if you only leave the grounds once make sure it’s to visit Como Beach Club. It’s found on the nearby island of Naka Yai – an exclusive alternative to Surin Beach that’s less Cast Away and more Swiss Family Robinson, and accessed via
traditional Thai longboat. The on-site kitchen serves up cocktails and tasty island fare, and if the soothing sound of water lapping the sand gets a bit “meh”, you can book a private sala (complete with daybed and bathroom) closer to the saltwater pool, or get a massage in one of the secluded Shambhala treatment rooms.
High ceilings and airy, open spaces highlight the architectural splendour of the resort’s common areas. And while it’d be easy to feel overwhelmed by the vastness of the place (this is no boutique hotel), it’s a well-oiled hospitality machine. These kinds of hotels often run the risk of becoming cold and impersonal in their quest to tick all the luxury boxes, but the staff here have perfected the art of making you feel like both a VIP customer and a friendly acquaintance. They’ll give you the inside tip on where to go for the best tom yum, but equally maintain a safe distance when you and your significant other are watching a romantic sunset from one of the outdoor tables at La Sirena, the hotel’s Italian restaurant. In fact, the Italian influence is strong throughout, both in the chic interiors – black, blue and white with jolts of neon orange – and the cart that serves up hand-churned ice-cream every day at 4pm. La vita è bella.
comohotels.com/pointyamu
PHUM BAITANG, CAMBODIA
Hidden away in the bucolic countryside among paddy fields, Phum Baitang is a boutique hotel designed to imitate a traditional Cambodian village. While nearby Siem Reap is overrun by tourists visiting Angkor Wat temple, this 45-villa complex feels a world away from the bustle. Choose from a terrace villa – best for taking in the lush green views – or a pool villa – for those who’d rather soak in their own private plunge pool than hang by the main one. The beautiful interiors speak to the minimalist in most of us: wooden villas are raised on stilts and feature thatched roofs, while woven rugs add welcoming texture. The Spa Temple pays homage to medieval-era Cambodia – a grand stone structure featuring a sauna, steam room, fitness room, yoga pavilion and chill-out zone.
Despite the appeal of hanging around the hotel, there are plenty of excursions on offer. Rise early for a scenic drive in a Vietnam Warera Jeep, swim under waterfalls at Phnom Kulen National Park or – if you want to take things really slow – simply watch the water buffalo go about their business.
A converted farmhouse on the property is where you’ll find the Cigar & Cocktail Lounge – a nod to the country’s colonial history, it’s complete with rattan wing chairs and oriental carpets. The larger Pool Bar is best for a boozy lunch (order a glass of Quinta do Pessegueiro, from the owner’s father’s vineyard in Portugal). Incorporating the spirit of a local village, the in-house Bay Phsar restaurant has a buffet where guests can select their own fresh ingredients and spices to be used in their meal. You can also test out your produce-picking skills with a cooking class. After joining the hotel chef at the local market, you’ll hit the on-site garden for fresh herbs then learn the secrets to traditional Khmer meals in the kitchen. The way to anyone’s heart is through their stomach, so forgo cheesy souvenirs and whip up something special when you arrive home. phumbaitang.com
KATAMAMA, BALI
Wind your way through the bumpy streets of Seminyak and you’ll eventually come to a driveway. The lo-fi signage and hint of red brick offer clues as to what’s hidden down the road – and those making the pilgrimage to Potato Head Beach Club, in their Matteau one-pieces and denim Bandits, suggest it’s something fabulous – but none of it can actually prepare you for the hulking red-brick structure that is Katamama. The first comparison you make might be to the science building at your old uni, but on closer inspection you’ll realise the unassuming, nostalgic exterior is part of what makes this 58-room hotel so special. Community is the catchword here, and the staff go to great lengths to uphold this. The lobby is not a lobby, but in fact Akademi Bar – where one wall houses records and a player while the other is lined with spirits for mixing aperitifs – and staff will greet you with “Welcome home!” as you step inside. Forget self-service check-in, they go one better at Katamama: you’ll head straight to your room with a guest relations officer, who’ll give you a full tour and check you in from the comfort of your new digs. The in-room bar is one of the most well-stocked you’ll ever encounter, and is extra impressive because you can call a bartender up to prepare you a complimentary cocktail to help you settle in.
The hotel is owned by the team behind Bali institution Potato Head, so booking a daybed at the beach club is easy (and there’s no minimum spend). But if you want a quieter alternative, the hotel pool is the perfect place to get some quality book time in. Most of what you see on-site at Katamama has been handmade by local artisans, and a few special pieces are mid-century wares from the likes of Arne Jacobsen and Le Corbusier. Assuming one or more will take your fancy, you can wander to Canaan, the hotel’s sustainable boutique, to buy your own treasures. On the way, stop for a latte at One Fifteenth Coffee or a vegan treat at lunch spot Alchemy. Just don’t blame us if you never want to leave. katamama.com
ST REGIS, LANGKAWI
Off the west coast of Malaysia lies the picturesque island of Langkawi. It’s the biggest in the 104-island archipelago of the same name, but the opening of luxury resort St Regis – the first high-end establishment to open here in more than a decade – cements its place as the getaway of your dreams. Set among centuries-old rainforest, the beachfront property comprises 85 suites and four overwater villas, each with uninterrupted views of the Andaman Sea.
This is a destination for those who want the best of everything; less of a place where you’d hire a car to explore the 480km² island (though it’s very possible, and worthwhile, if that’s your vibe), and more of an opportunity to live out your billionaire fantasies. The Signature St Regis Butler service provides guests with their own butler who will unpack and press your clothes, deliver you a nightcap or preemptively run you a muscle-relaxing bath if you’ve started the day with a bird-watching hike. You can also arrange a Bentley airport transfer, and if you’re unsure whether that’s worth springing for let us just point out that J.LO has a Bentley so you’d be in good company (even if it’s only a 30-minute drive).
At the Iridium Spa, chic grey marble and low lighting set the mood. The facials use Babor skincare, while the body treatments are given a unique spin by way of the ingredients used (think: betel and pandan leaves, tamarind and olives). Unexpected, yes, but these are some of the best spa therapists in Malaysia so just go with it.
The ideal place to catch the sunset is on one of the overwater hammocks outside the Kayu Puti restaurant – order a Lang Mary (their version of a bloody mary) and take some happy snaps before you head inside for dinner. The jewel in their dining crown, Kayu Puti sits across the water, constructed on stilts to afford the best views, while in the kitchen executive chef Gaetan Biesuz puts a masterful spin on traditional fare.
There are plenty more places to drink and dine in the resort grounds: L’orangerie does a no-holds-barred international breakfast spread with views of the rainforest and sea captured through palatial glass windows, while you can take your welcome drink or afternoon tea in the courtyard of The Drawing Room. There are two opulent bars as well: Decanter Wine Bar is home to more than 1,000 bottles of vino, while The St Regis Bar specialises in cocktails and cigars. stregislangkawi.com