What to look for

Do your homework. Make sure any RS Turbo is the real deal. Faking a Series 2 is especially easy if based on a Mk4 XR3i, which was available in the same colours ( among others).

Begin by ensuring the number on the logbook matches the digits on the VIN plate ( riveted to the slam panel) and stamped into the floor beside the driver’s seat ( under a carpet flap). An RS Turbo’s VIN should read WF0BXXGCAB, followed by numbers that correspond with the engine code ( found on the cylinder block).

Next, check it’s a genuine RS bodyshell: there will be factorymade drillings where the ECU bolts to the bulkhead, and you should feel triple-skinned steel ( rather than double-skinned) in the engine bay - put your finger through a hole in the chassis rail where the metering unit attaches to the inner wing. Make sure there’s an anti-roll bar at the rear, and remember - ABS should be present ( unless it’s been removed; if so, ensure it’s been done properly).

Only early non- Custom Pack RS Turbos lacked a sunroof (they also had wind-up windows and lacked central locking). Look for a date sticker on the sunroof slider, which should tally with the car’s age.

RS Turbos built from September 1989 onwards are known as ‘90spec, and are more desirable thanks to improved equipment; look for the wrapped- over rear spoiler, deeper front bumper, outline boot decal, Zolda cloth upholstery ( grey with blue/red flecks), extended centre console, different dials, variable-speed intermittent wipers, rear courtesy light and plastic sill protectors.

Inner wings on ‘90-spec machines were altered too, along with revised coolant/washer/brake fluid reservoirs; when retrofitted to an earlier shell, the later header tank sits at a weird angle.

If the RS Turbo you’ve seen turns out to be a fake, you’ve two choices: run away, or pay a realistic ( much lower) price. If it’s a good shell and you’re planning mods, it might even be a bonus…