What to avoid

Restoration of a rotten RS Turbo costs more than buying a mint example, and by the time you’ve splashed out, a re-shell could be feasible ( albeit reducing the overall value). Note that earlier ( C- and D-reg) cars were made of inferior steel, and apparently rot for fun.

Start with the obvious stuff: sunroof mechanisms are often rusty, as is the roof behind - there’s no fix other than a new skin. Pricey! Front wings, doors, tail gates and fuel filler surrounds rotted from new, and the bonnet could be scabby too.

Next, dig deeper. Check for corrosion behind the bodykit - namely the rear valance, sills and wheelarches.

If possible, remove seats, door cards and carpets ( check they’re not damp) to inspect the footwells, bulkhead, inner sills and arches. Also pay attention to the A-pillars, inner wings, battery tray, fuse box, rear chassis rails, boot floor and front crossmember. Beware of corroded wiring, which can cause real havoc, especially in the fuel pump area.

If the car’s misfiring, underpowered, struggling to start or not making boost, don’t simply assume there’ll be an easy fix; it’s not unusual to spend serious cash resolving issues with sensors, relays, fuel meters and wiring faults.

Mechanically, everything is fixable - but don’t spend top money on a tired Escort. A rattly top end is normal, and a growling cam is cheap to replace. Knocking from the bottom end is more serious, as is blue smoke from the exhaust; suspect failed pistons and/or rings or a blown turbo, although the odd puff could merely be burnt valve stem seals. As always, beware of white smoke, high temperatures and oil/water mixing – sure signs of head gasket failure.

Finally, if you’re looking for a showpiece, beware of cars with tatty cabins. A mint RS Turbo interior – especially ‘90-spec – is a rare and pricey thing. Driver’s seat bolsters are usually worn, too.