FIESTA XR2 MK1
Ford’s first XR2 was a featherweight buzz-bomb from which all fast Fiestas evolved. Now an ever-appreciating classic, the Mk1 XR2 is a pure performance icon that can still be bought, used and enjoyed – if you know where to look…
IDENTITY
An XR2’s value is tied to its identity. Although there’s nothing wrong with a replica or recreation, it’s not worth as much as the real deal. Ringers and reshells should be treated with extreme caution.
Start by checking that the VIN number on the logbook matches the chassis number stamped into the driver’s-side inner sill/floor, visible through a slot in the carpet. If it’s not there, it could be dodgy or simply rusted away. The same number should be seen on the VIN plate in the engine bay, attached to the offside bulkhead; the VIN number on any Mk1 XR2 should start with VS6 (the code for Valencia, where all XR2s were assembled), followed by BXXWPFB plus two more letters and five digits that relate to the unique chassis number, as also found on the engine.
The engine itself should have a casting reading 771M-6015-CA, along with T7 stamped under number four exhaust port, next to the gearbox.
Check the rest of the VIN plate. The engine code should read L3, the transmission code should be T, and the axle code P (3.58:1 ).
The XR2 bodyshell was unique, with certain key spots to check it’s authentic. Ensure it’s a facelift bodyshell with two-bolt bumper mounts on the front and rear panels (as opposed to single holes on pre-August 1981 Fiestas); if the bumpers have had a fixing removed, suspect it’s not an XR2 shell.
The XR2 front panel was different for the circular headlamps, and the rear valance was also unique, being factory-pressed prior to assembly – unlike the Supersport, which was modified in situ; both have a spare wheel bulge visible below the back bumper.
Crucially, there should be strengthening plates affixed to the chassis rails under the front floorpan with four 13mm-headed bolts. The
XR2 also had a reinforcing plate in the nearside front inner wing for a top gearbox mount, which was fitted to all 1300cc Mk1s; if it’s missing, you’re probably looking at a Fiesta 950/1100 bodyshell, and it’s time to walk away.
If in doubt, check with the XR Owners’ Club; membership is essential for any XR2 owner or buyer.
INTERIOR
Mk1 Fiesta cabins were built on the cheap. Don’t be surprised to see scuffed or broken plastics, loose or missing trim.
Dashboard tops tend to crack, and they’re difficult to repair; decent second-hand replacements are pricey. Make sure the instruments are pukka XR2 bits: a 140mph speedometer and rev counter in grey binnacle with red surround. The centre console should have a similar grey finish.
The switches are durable but the symbols wear off; they’re standard Mk1 bits, so not difficult to source. Dashboard lights often seem dull due to blown bulbs and perished plastic covers.
The XR2’s Storm and Crushed Velour upholstery is relatively hard-wearing but stains easily. The driver’s seat bolster is prone to tearing and its foam collapsing; check it’s not been replaced with a passenger seat. Both fronts should have A-frame headrests, although padded centres were optional and worth the extra cost.
Check the door cards to make sure the vinyl isn’t separating and that the door bins aren’t damaged. The rear parcel shelf may be sagging or cut for speakers; replacements can be expensive.
Beware of cheap-looking carpet – the XR2’s was a plush Ghia grey matt, and is not easy to find in good condition. Make sure the rest of the spec is XR2 too: you’ll need to see an illuminated glovebox and fag lighter.
Don’t forget to look up: XR2s had a black headlining with twin sunvisors, roof-mounted digital clock and three grab handles. If bits are missing, question the car’s authenticity or prepare to start spending; it’s usually cheaper to buy a car with mint interior rather than replacing all the important trim.
“XR values have taken their time to reach RS levels, but they’re now not far behind“
ENGINE
XR2 power came courtesy of an old 1.6-litre Kent (Crossflow) engine – a repackaged version of the unit found in Ford’s Escort Mexico of 1970. By now, some of its 84bhp may be missing, and you’ll certainly notice the loss, especially if it won’t rev.
A tired Crossflow will burn oil – usually breathing from the oil filler when warm or billowing out blue smoke through the exhaust. If so, the pistons, rings and cylinder bores will probably be worn; symptoms show up as early as 60,000 miles, but a Kent will generally keep going forever, albeit getting slower.
Don’t be concerned about a puff of smoke at start-up or the overrun, which suggests the valve stem oil seals need to be replaced. Oil leaks are also very common – especially from sump and rocker cover gaskets, particularly if they’ve been overtightened.
Crossflows are relatively simple engines to work on, but parts aren’t as cheap as they once were. Regular oil and filter changes are very beneficial, and it’s worth refreshing the coolant when you get chance. Many XR2s have by now received an unleaded cylinder head conversion, but we’d advise keeping clear of new E10 petrol.
Listen for nasty noises from the engine. It’s inherently a rattly unit due to the timing chain and valve gear, but if it sounds like a typewriter, the tappets probably need adjusting. Heavy clacking could be a slack chain or broken camshaft followers and scored cam, which will mean the engine needs a rebuild.
Misfires and starting difficulties are pretty common but unlikely to be serious – usually pointing to a knackered distributor, ignition amplifier, coil, or old spark plugs and/or leads. Poor performance and rough running may also come from a tired or badly-adjusted carburettor, especially if the auto-choke mechanism is sticking. It’s well worth buying a new Weber to save yourself loads of grief.
Don’t be surprised to see a modified motor under a Mk1 XR2’s bonnet. The Crossflow is capable of producing much more power with a high-lift cam, flowed head, tubular exhaust manifold and bigger carburettors; just remember standard cars are worth more cash, so budget accordingly.
“Ignore anyone who insists the bubble will burst: XR values haven’t yet peaked”
TRANSMISSION
All Mk1 XR2s were fitted with a BC four-speed manual transmission – if you find a five-speed under the bonnet, it’s been retrofitted. While handy for motorway driving, the conversion involved fitting the BC5 from an XR3/XR2 Mk2 and involved cutting out the nearside front chassis leg to accommodate the bigger gearbox. So if you’re looking at a supposedly original car, check the inner wing and chassis rail to make sure it’s never been modified.
The standard four-speed was able to cope with an XR2’s torque, but mileage and lack of maintenance can lead to problems.
Take a test drive. The gearshift isn’t particularly pleasing, but difficulty changing cogs suggests a problem: it could be worn selector bushes in the linkage or poor adjustment. Crunching when selecting reverse is normal, but between forward gears points to synchromesh failure.
If you hear vibrations or whirring, dip the clutch pedal; if the noise stops, it’s from a worn thrust bearing; if it continues, it’s probably from worn differential bearings in the differential; if it’s accompanied by a non-working speedometer, the bearings have collapsed and it’s time for a rebuild.
Check for clutch slip by driving in fourth gear at 30mph, then hammering the accelerator. If the revs go up but the road speed doesn’t increase, the clutch is most likely slipping. But check the ratchet on the back of the pedal isn’t in need of adjustment and that the cable isn’t stretched.
SUSPENSION AND BRAKES
It’s all very straightforward beneath a Mk1 XR2, with MacPherson front struts, beam rear axle with coil springs, telescopic dampers and largerdiameter (14mm) anti-roll bar than regular Mk1 Fiesta 1300s.
Check for leaking dampers, and examine the strut top mounts for excessive play. Vibrations and knocking from the front will be caused by worn lower ball joints or track rod ends, while vague steering suggests tired track control arm bushes. The driveshaft and steering gaiters tend to tear, so look for leaks. It’s all cheap to repair.
A worn steering rack (all Mk1s were nonassisted) will exhibit sloppiness from the front. Make sure it’s the proper XR2 rack, which has lock stops to save the 185-section tyres from catching on the wheelarches; examine the inner wings for shiny metal where they’ve rubbed.
Wallowing and poor handling tends to result from knackered dampers or snapped coil springs; the latter will often be accompanied by the XR2 leaning to one side, but could also point to rotten rear axle spring cups, which force the spring into an odd angle; a repair will mean removing the axle from the car. Noises from the back may also be due to broken anti-roll bar drop links or worn trailing arm bushes.
XR2 brakes included small front discs and standard-sized Mk1 rear drums. Drivers of modern hot hatchbacks may be alarmed by a vague brake pedal; it’s naturally spongy but much worse when there’s wear in the linkage between pedal and servo, which runs across the bulkhead.
Brake parts are cheap and easy to source. The fronts may be juddering due to contamination on the discs/pads or a sticking calliper – especially if the car pulls to one side.
Ensure the rear drums aren’t seized, which is common when the car’s not used very often. Check the rear wheel cylinders aren’t leaking and that the handbrake works – the cable could be stretched or badly-adjusted. For safety’s sake, make sure the brake lines aren’t rusty and the rubber hoses aren’t perished, split or ballooning.