SUSPENSION AND BRAKES
SVE-tweaked underpinnings made the RS Turbo unique among Fiestas, but its failings are much the same as any other Mk3.
Front suspension drop links collapse with regularity (they’re simple to fix) and the lower arms become floppy, leading to knocking and banging. Replacements are available but they’re RS-specific and around 10mm longer; it makes sense to fit Powerflex bushes for longevity. Similarly, polyurethane strut-top mount rubbers are a worthwhile upgrade.
Despite its age, the standard RS Turbo should feel sharp and agile – if not, there’s something wrong. Chances are the springs or dampers are old and worn out. Many Mk3 Fiestas have also been modified, often with overly-low or cut-down springs; any more than a 30mm drop is considered detrimental to the handling.
Fiestas are also prone to eating wheel bearings, so listen for rumbling on the test drive.
If there’s a general vagueness, check the steering for play. Yes, the track rod ends or (unassisted) rack may be floppy but it’s more likely a bush in the column – notable if you can pull the steering wheel towards you.
Don’t forget to make sure there’s a rear anti-roll bar with factory mountings: if not, it’s likely you’re viewing a lesser-model Mk3 and not an authentic RS – and it’s time to run away.
Stopping an RS Turbo was the job of an XR2i braking setup, designed to haul up 108bhp rather than 133bhp – never mind a 200bhp-plus modified machine. Needless to say, the stock stoppers struggle to cope with power hikes, leading to juddering front brake discs due to overheating and/ or contamination.
The prehistoric rear drums are prone to simple problems such as leaking wheel cylinders, resulting in a poor handbrake: nothing to worry about but fiddly to fix. Beware if it feels like there’s too much braking to the back end, which could be due to a seized bias valve.
ABS was an optional extra, fitted to quite a few RS Turbos. Sadly, it’s a primitive belt-driven system with a multitude of potential faults – from something simple such as a snapped (or removed) belt to pump failure.
Check it’s working by ensuring the dashboard light comes on with the ignition and goes off again after a few seconds. It’s common to find the warning lamp bulb removed or the system blanked off, which is a big concern. Simply bunging up a hole disables the dual circuit’s diagonal split, which is illegal at best and dangerous at worst.