Courtney dransfield
Aka: curlewis mission: plus-size clothing
After a lifetime of struggling to find clothes she both liked and could fit into, Courtney Dransfield decided to take matters into her own hands. The 31-year-old Bondi local is the designer and founder of Curlewis – a premium fashion label specifically for sizes 16 to 24. As a kid, Courtney remembers being relegated to the men’s section of a clothing store, rifling through cargo shorts and oversized t-shirts while her thinner mum and sister donned the feminine stuff. In adulthood, not a lot had changed: her love for leisurely pieces in quality natural fabrics was rarely satisfied, as the items almost never came in a size 22. “I wanted to cater to a market that wasn’t being serviced,” she explains. “I’ve always had trouble finding clothes – major brands and even indie labels drop out at a size 16 or 18.” Design-wise, Courtney’s motivated to make Curlewis customers feel empowered, sophisticated and sexy. “I kind of hate those words,” she admits, “but you know, plus-size women are always encouraged to cover up their bodies. I want women to feel a bit flirtatious, whether for themselves or for others.”
Curlewis launched earlier this year – a big milestone for Courtney, who has minimal fashion experience. It was her background in business (she still works a day job in food production) that gave her the confidence to learn everything from scratch. It’s important to Courtney to be involved in all aspects of the label’s design and production, including stepping in to be the fit model. “I want customers to know that we’re made by and for plus-size women,” she says. “I always felt that certain brands didn’t understand how to design for my body. In fact, I spoke to some designers before I started Curlewis who told me they didn’t know any plus-size models they could call on to fit their pieces.”
The plus-size clothing industry has (thankfully) accelerated in recent years, with major brands extending their size range, and long-time bloggers like Gabi Gregg and Nicolette Mason starting their own influential labels. Many of the fashion businesses, however, are focused specifically on fly-by-night trends. Courtney’s design approach reflects her day-to-day experience living by the coast in Sydney. She wanted leisurewear she could dress up or down and wear all year around. So, she made it: all clean shapes in flowing, neutral-coloured cotton and linen. (Courtney named the label after the street in Bondi on which she grew up – an homage to the beachside suburb.)
Courtney hopes Curlewis can fill the gap for more considered plus-size designs, and that she can help women feel more confident in showing off their curves. “Compared to the US, I feel like our local customer hasn’t yet made the leap into expecting a certain type of design or production quality,” she says. And though Curlewis pieces are far from figure-hugging or bum-skimming, unlike the matronly muumuus some labels peddle, they’re tailored to flatter the waist and show off a bit of shoulder. “I think Australian women still feel a pressure to cover their body,” she says. “They’re self-conscious about certain parts, which is a challenge.”
It’s still early days for Curlewis, with just one collection produced so far, featuring six styles in classic black and white (think A-line skirts and dresses, dress shirts, wide pants and tees). Courtney’s chuffed, though, to have realised a childhood dream of starting her very own fashion label. “I wanted to create clothes that suited me,” she says. “I just took the leap. Going forward, I would like to let Curlewis be something I can grow without having to be too worried about the bottom line – that would be a real luxury.”