POTATO SOUP

Potato soup is a hard food to pass sweeping judgement on, simply because every single European country has its own version. French vichyssoise is probably the most widely known. A delicate purée of potatoes, leeks, cream and stock, it is delicious (although I’ve never had it served cold, as is allegedly the custom in France). Kartoffelsuppe, the German version, is chunkier and includes speck or bacon (of course). Then you have the whole universe of American chowders, which are even richer and creamier. Surveying this tuberous lakescape, all I can really say is “yes”. Yes to them all. Even the slightly weird-looking Russian version with mushrooms in it. There are some cold nights when only potato soup will do, and it doesn’t really matter which one you prepare. Potato soup is the sine qua non of Euro peasant food, and should be respected as such.