HASH BROWNS

I’ve never had a good hash brown, probably because 99 per cent of the hash browns I’ve eaten have been from Mcdonald’s. Maccas hash browns are limp and greasy, fit only for sopping up whatever remains in your stomach after a night of unbridled intoxication. If that’s what you need, by all means go ahead, and try not to hate yourself too much afterwards. But if you’re looking for a similar experience at home, may I suggest the hash brown’s Ashkenazi cousin, the latke? Both foods are basically shredded potatoes, fried in oil until crisp. But latkes score a resounding victory on the connotative level, as they’re traditionally prepared for beloved family members during Hanukkah, a joyful event. That’s how I want to feel when I’m frying potato pancakes, not the shame and anxiety of a hungover fast-food breakfast. Hash browns fail the vibe check; latkes pass with flying colours.