Potted pears and apples

Apples and pears are surprisingly adaptable for container growing, as MARCELLE NANKERVIS explains

Growing my own deliciously sweet apples and pears at home has been a highlight of my edible growing adventures. Few things match the sense of joy and achievement. And while we tend to think of these fruits as being grown in orchards and on large properties, they’re no longer limited to those settings. Thanks to modern grafting and plant breeding, there are pomes (the collective name for the family of apples and pears) available to suit all sizes of garden, and that includes potted gardens.

The ability to take the top off one plant and put it on the roots of another is one of the marvels of both agriculture and horticulture. When a fruit tree is grafted, the fruiting qualities of the top bit are generally maintained, but the size of the overall tree is determined by the rootstock. Most dwarf fruit trees at garden centres have been grafted onto a rootstock that ensures the tree can’t grow too big.

choosing a variety

Grafted trees on dwarf rootstocks are best for pots and small gardens. They grow easily with less soil, and still produce the same amazing fruit. Potted fruit trees have more or less the same requirements as those in the ground: full sun, fertiliser in spring and autumn, and protection from pests. Combine this with a little pruning and training, and your fruit trees can provide you with fruit and structure in the garden.

There’s a range of apples that grow in a narrow column shape, including Herald, Cumulus, Harmony and the Ballerina series. These trees are perfect for pots and can be positioned in a sunny courtyard, along a fence or as focal points in a bigger garden.

Other dwarf trees, including the Trixzie series of apples and pears, can be equally adaptable, especially when they’re trained as espaliers (growing flat against a wall or along wires) or cordons (single stemmed fruit trees with shortened side shoots).

If you’re growing more than one tree, look for varieties that crop at different times to extend the season. All apple varieties need cross pollination to produce fruit but most will cross with Jonathan, a versatile, mid-season apple. For tart crispness, you might grow a Granny Smith; for something sweet but fresh, try Cripps Pink (aka Pink Lady); or if you love making apple desserts, it’s hard to go past Golden Delicious.

Pears also need a pollinator, so check with your supplier. Mid-season varieties such as Glou Morceau will potentially pollinate early-, mid- and late-season varieties. For fresh eating, Williams is my go-to, but for desserts, I prefer Beurre Bosc. Cocktail pears such as Faccia Rosa and San Giovanni are great for pots and produce juicy fruit fresh from the tree.

Apples and pears require a minimum of 300 to 1200 hours below 7˚C every year to fruit successfully. If you live in a marginal area, look for low-chill varieties.

planting & care

Bare-rooted fruit trees are usually available from June to August and, although they are dormant and sold as little more than bare sticks, you get much more tree for your dollar at this time of year. They have, however, been grown in a field and dug up for sale. They will suffer some transplant shock when planted into the garden or pots as their roots have been drastically reduced for sale. To compensate, always prune the top growth and treat plants with fortnightly applications of liquid seaweed until they are actively growing during spring. Container-grown fruit trees are available year-round. They won’t suffer as much transplant shock, but they cost more.

Choose a pot that is wide and deep, with straight or only gently curved sides. Avoid a pot that narrows towards the top, as this can make it hard to dislodge the rootball later, when the plant needs re-potting. Remember, when growing in containers, it’s important to use premium potting mix, not soil. Potting mix is designed for pots; it has an open profile to allow oxygen to reach the roots, while also allowing water to flow through the mix as required.

pests & diseases

The number one pest when growing any fruit tree is birds. They love eating fruit, and often enjoy it a few weeks before we are ready to harvest, so netting is critical if you want to keep your harvest. To make the netting as safe as possible for birds and other wildlife, use fine netting with a mesh size less than 5mm, and secure it firmly so there’s little slack.

Apples and pears are prone to a few problems. Scab is a fungal disease that can lead to poor growth and fruit drop. To help control this, apply a copper- or sulphur-based fungicide about two weeks before budburst. Codling moth is also a common pest, but it can be controlled using baits and traps.