Gardening Australia

Plant a LIVING MULCH

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Bare soil heats up rapidly in hot weather. A good way to keep soil cool is to plant some well-chosen groundcove­rs. They act like a living mulch, shading the surface and helping retain soil moisture. Here are some to consider.

Spanish shawl (Heterocent­ron elegans) This sun-lover spreads to make a blanketing cover studded with magenta flowers in spring and summer. It prefers warm temperate, tropical and subtropica­l areas.

Native violet (Viola hederacea)

A great pick for slightly damp, shady areas, this is suitable for all climates.

Variegated star jasmine (Trachelosp­ermum jasminoide­s

‘Tricolor’) This can be a little slow to get started, but once establishe­d, it provides a tough, dependable and drought-tolerant groundcove­r for many years. It grows in full sun to light shade and in all but the coldest areas.

Spreading succulents Sedums, echeverias, blue chalkstick­s and pink iceplant (Oscularia deltoides) are great performers in hot, dry conditions and will grow in most parts of the country.

Dwarf chenille plant (Acalypha reptans) This groundcove­r has fluffy, pinky-red flowers and foliage that looks like strawberry leaves. It prefers a sunny, wind-protected spot and thrives in the tropics and subtropics. Lamb’s ears (Stachys byzantina)

With its velvety silver leaves and purple flower spikes, this is a good choice for dry areas, but it may need some extra watering in hot summers. It grows in cold, warm temperate and arid regions.

Netting is one of the best ways to protect fruit trees from predators, such as possums, bats and birds. It’s important to get your summer fruit trees covered before the fruit reaches the delectable and desirable stage.

Choose a sturdy knitted mesh with holes that are less than 5mm across. Netting with 2mm-wide apertures also protects fruit from insect pests, such as fruit fly and codling moth. White is the safest netting colour to use as it can be more easily seen by night-time visitors, such as bats and possums, and it provides the tree with a small amount of protection from sunburn.

Set up a supporting frame made from star pickets and 50mm irrigation pipe. Stretch the netting firmly over the support, and secure it to the ground. Think about how you will access the fruit when you need to (some nets have an overlappin­g opening). Check regularly to make sure the netting is still in place and hasn’t trapped any creatures.

Prune bottlebrus­h (above), tree waratah (Alloxylon flammeum) and native frangipani (Hymenospor­um flavum) after flowering finishes

Dig out congested borders of Moses-in-the-cradle (Tradescant­ia spathacea) and improve the soil before planting divisions or fresh cuttings

Check trees and remove weak or suspect branches before the arrival of the cyclone season

Divide and replant cannas, making sure they stay well watered while they are re-establishi­ng

Take tip cuttings of mint and Vietnamese mint and put them into jars of clean water to form roots

Plant the small-growing edible pandan in a damp spot in the garden and, once well establishe­d, harvest its leaves for cooking

Pick up fallen fruit from beneath trees to avoid encouragin­g pests or spreading disease

Harvest pineapples, using a sharp knife, ensuring you wait until they have developed good colour and a strong, sweet perfume

Plant root crops, such as taro and cassava, which will flourish in the coming wet season

Separate bromeliad pups from parent plants (below) and pot them up into an open, free-draining mix

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Spanish shawl; sedums like the dry; dwarf chenille plant (Acalypha reptans); lamb’s ears.
CLOCKWISE, FROM LEFT Spanish shawl; sedums like the dry; dwarf chenille plant (Acalypha reptans); lamb’s ears.
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