Not Just Desserts
Sweet wines hit the spot … at the end of a meal or on their own.
When Shakespeare wrote “Sweets to the sweet” in Hamlet, they were words delivered with flowers scattered in Ophelia’s grave. How the centuries changed the meaning. Say “Sweets to the sweet” today, and we think of romance, love, sweets to eat and sweets to drink.
Sweets to drink are an especially intriguing group, which includes a charming entry from California: Bee d’vine, a honey wine launched in 2014. Honey has been used to make alcoholic drinks for millennia. In keeping with its long history, Bee d’vine is made traditionally: solely from honey, water and yeast. Its Demi Sec, softly sweet, is satin-smooth with a floral background, a hint of almond and, yes, an aroma and aftertaste of honey ($29/375ml bottle). And here’s the latest buzz: In November 2020 Bee d’vine entrepreneur Ayele Solomon appeared on Shark Tank, winning a “4-shark offer” and accepting a $750,000 investment in his business.
In Austria in the town of Rust, about six miles from the Hungarian border, Heidi Schröck produces an outstanding, naturally sweet Ruster Ausbruch wine called On the Wings of Dawn from a blend of grapes. It is a rich, savory wine with tones of peaches, a touch of cinnamon, a lively citrus quality and a marvelous creamy finish ($75/375ml bottle). In October 2020 Ruster Ausbruch wines received their own Districtus Austriae Controllatus (DAC) designation, the first given exclusively for sweet wines in the country.
The cool climate of Canada is ideal for one of the most difficult wines to make: ice wine. Left on the vine long after the rest of the grapes have been harvested, frozen grapes yield just drops of the extraordinarily sweet juice that produces ice wine. Look for those from Inniskillin, Château des Charmes, Rockway Vineyards, Reif Estate Winery, Pillitteri Estates and Ziraldo Estate Winery — all wineries that have consistently produced winning ice wines. Prices range about $25–80 for a 375ml bottle.
SAY “SWEETS TO THE SWEET” TODAY, AND WE THINK OF ROMANCE, LOVE, SWEETS TO EAT AND SWEETS TO DRINK.
New York State’s northern Finger Lakes District, also a cool region, is home to Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, a producer of well-made sweet wines. The winery’s Riesling Noble Select Magdalena Vineyard balances a luscious sweetness with clean acidity, apricot flavors and citrus fruits ($75/375ml bottle). And for the sweetest of all, try Noble Select Riesling Josef Vineyard, with the most intensely concentrated balance of fruit flavors, sweetness and refreshing acidity ($125/375ml bottle).
All promise sweets to the sweet.