Philadelphia Freedom
Declare independence from alcohol with flavorful, zero-proof cocktails … or indulge in creative boozy libations.
Bars these days generally offer well-made nonalcoholic beverages during yearly Dry January promotions — and to a lesser extent in Sober October. But what’s a teetotaler or temporarily abstaining guest to do the other 10 months of the year? In this glorious renaissance era of craft cocktails, the savviest of operators know “not drinking tonight” doesn’t have to (and shouldn’t) equate to yawn-inducing, nearly flavorless club soda with lime. Philadelphia bartenders get in the spirit with libations so good you won’t miss what’s missing.
Drinking in the glamorous space at the sumptuous REX at the Royal would be thirst-quenching enough. The teal and gilded façade of the former Royal Theatre — what’s left of the country’s first African-american movie house and live music venue built in 1919 — serves as the backdrop for the Low Country-influenced restaurant. Slip into a velvet-upholstered booth and select one of the liquid options offered during its recently launched brunch; several come in cocktail and mocktail versions, and every sip arrives in swoon-worthy vintage glassware. Swap out the blanco tequila and Galliano in the Por Dio with carrot, turmeric and lime, instead adding grapefruit, orange juice and sparkling water. You end up with the still shockingly orange, vegetal Madras Cooler. Hold the gin in a Pythians (made with sorrel, clove, allspice, lemon and tonic), and the cheekily named Sorrel Loser proves anything but. The super-fun Yellow Snow, a playful combination of blanco tequila, yellow Chartreuse, crème de banane, pickled sweet corn and rosemary, only gets better as its snowball mound of crushed ice melts. Worthy savory accompaniments include sweet tea-brined chicken thighs and malted waffles, and shrimp with cheese-speckled grits.
Over in Old City, neighborhood bistro Royal Boucherie proves a lively spot any night of the week. Grab a stool at the low-lit bar situated beneath a pressed tin ceiling and order the French 52, a heady version of the bubbly classic named for the venue’s address on Second Street that mingles local Boardroom Gin with sparkling rosé, lemon and a whiff of rose water. Four Temperance Cocktails pique the palates of the non-potent potable crowd, like a gin-less Easy East Side riff with ginger beer and the chameleon-like Lavender Bow Tie, whose lavender-pea flower infusion turns fuchsia when floated atop grapefruit juice and soda.
Just around the corner, explore Forsythia, known for its selection of natural wines and playful sips like a rye- and beet-based cocktail fans of The Office will recognize as an homage to Dwight’s Scranton beet farm. But the modern French restaurant’s most fun use of a spirit might be the splash of green Chartreuse added to the almond butter in which tender escargots take a soak; pickled pearl onion leaves and bergamot croutons add to the surprising presentation. Drink your dinner, indeed.