Mini-break
An epic helicopter ride followed by biking through Otago’s dramatic terrain makes for a truly remarkable adventure.
Adventures in Queenstown
As a mountain biker who has tackled countless uphills for the views and the fun of the downhills, heli-biking packs plenty of appeal. With the thrill of a chopper ride over stunning scenery thrown into the mix, it’s the kind of fun that has made Queenstown New Zealand’s adventure capital.
Unlike other local adrenaline rushes, such as throwing yourself off a precipice attached to a rubber tether, or speeding towards a rock face in a jetboat, a whole day of glorious downhills in backcountry Otago is like slow travel for the adventurous.
And so it was, with bikes attached to the side of a helicopter, that I flew with a friend and our guide for the day to Advance Peak, which lies beyond the well-known ski destination of Coronet Peak. Flying over velveteen mountains that wore tussock like the coat of a golden labrador, the stunning Central Otago views set the scene for a day of natural highs. Leaving the sheep-dotted fields behind, views encompassed rocky escarpments, plunging valleys streaked with white water, and mountains with channel-riven sides.
Landing at the top of Advance Peak, which sits about 1750m above sea level, there was a humbling feeling of being like a tiny speck of dust amidst this vast and majestic wilderness. We were a few people on bikes about to descend 22km to the old gold mining hub of Arrowtown.
As an intermediate rider with limited knowledge about the mechanics of bikes, I’m into riding for the fun and chose the Nevis heli option with Fat Tyre Adventures as it can be done at your own pace and comfort level. After a final check of the bikes and a few photos, we were ready for our big day out, partly on tracks carved by the early goldminers. As well as a few broken dreams, they had left behind skinny paths that we traced across and down the mountain.
From the rocky, tussocky peak, the initial descent was a brake-smoking thigh burner – the perfect excuse to stop often and gaze in awe at the rugged scenery. New terrain offered up fresh challenges and places of beauty to enjoy. The light GT mountain bikes
easily manoeuvred around the mountain’s natural obstacles, bounced down drop-offs and surged through running streams. Soggy socks and mud splatter were all part of the fun.
At one point, a kid goat trotted out to a precipice above to bleat hello, an uncanny pointer to what lay just ahead – a veritable goat track that hugged the hillside. I walked this skinny part and, apart from a few gnarly turns and awkward but brief ascents, everything else was rideable.
As we left the lofty altitudes behind, the final descent threw up a few quirky strays from society – a bearded, reclining gent with a cheeky grin and freshly brewed billy tea, a whiffy hiker from Oregon walking the 3000km Te Araroa trail, and a handful of gold-panners. A surreal near-end to one of the best days in nature this country can offer.
After a long, free-flowing finale that took us through beech forest, nearly five hours had passed. And were it not for the prospect of fine food and a comfortable bed at the Sherwood in Queenstown, I could have done it all over again.
The Sherwood, a chic, sustainably-run retreat with a focus on wellness and authenticity, is an “experiment in modern living”, according to its owners, a clutch of left-field New Zealand entrepreneurs. Set on three acres of alpine hillside in Queenstown, and overlooking Lake Wakatipu and the Remarkables, the former 1980s faux-Tudor motor-inn has been remodelled to cater to travellers’ needs with accommodation ranging from premium guest rooms to lakeside studios and communal bunkrooms.
With a zippy BMX track that wraps around the kitchen garden, places for “spontaneous leisure” such as the tipi with lake views, well-crafted meals of local and largely organic food, and a drinks list that embraces natural wines, there’s nothing else like it in Queenstown.
Before she went on maternity leave, former head chef Ainsley Thompson made it her mission to grow a community of regional food providers and conceive unpretentious but clever cuisine. Seated at one end of the open kitchen, we enjoyed five memorable courses paired with outstanding Central Otago wines. It was the ultimate end to the perfect day. Turns out there’s still plenty of gold to be found in this part of the world.