Legends of the north

Northland, stretching from the tip of New Zealand to the start of the Auckland region, is a sub-tropical area characterised by forests and beaches, and where legend has it that the great discoverer Kupe arrived on his double-hulled waka, naming this place Aotearoa. Some of the oldest traces of Māori settlement, or kāinga, can be found in this region, but there is a giant here that predates all. Tāne Mahuta (Lord of the Forest), is a kauri tree located in the Waipoua Kauri Forest in the Hokianga with an estimated age of between 1250 and 2500 years. It’s the largest known living kauri in New Zealand, and after just a short five-minute walk through the canopy you’ll stand before this goliath, humbled by its palpable ancient presence.

While many visitors to Northland base themselves in cosmopolitan Paihia, we have a soft spot for the Hokianga town of Rāwene, located on the south side of the harbour. Enjoy a wander around this charming historic village (the third oldest European settlement in New Zealand) and pop into some cute cafés, including the one inside the No 1 Parnell Gallery, a lovingly restored social conscious art space, showcasing art, ceramics, jewellery and sculpture.

If you want to be even closer to the water, you can’t do better than the Boatshed Cafe, which sits on stilts at the water’s edge. Good coffee, great views, warm hospitality, a cosy atmosphere and delicious food are served up in spades here.