LENTIL AS ANYTHING
Earthy and deeply comforting, lentils embrace whatever flavours come their way, be they Italy’s salami and cavolo nero or the spices of the subcontinent.
Earthy and deeply comforting, lentils embrace whatever flavours come their way, be they Italy’s salami and cavolo nero or the spices of the subcontinent.
FRITTERS
Platter from Earth & Baker. Vase from Vampt Vintage Design. Weathered copper dish (used throughout) from Lightly. Wooden coaster from West Elm. Throw (used as tablecloth) from The Vignette Room. SOUP Chair from
Vampt Vintage Design. Sarpaneva casserole by Iittala from Top 3 by Design. Hand towel from The Vignette Room. Bowl from Golden Brown Fox Ceramics. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p175. Red lentil fritters with green yoghurt
(RECIPE P100)
Green lentils with salami and cavolo nero
Prep time 15 mins, cook 30 mins
Serves 4 as a side or light meal
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped, plus 2 extra, thinly sliced on a mandolin ½ tsp chilli flakes 300 gm small green lentils 100 ml red wine 500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock 1 fresh bay leaf 1 oregano sprig, plus extra leaves to serve ½ bunch cavolo nero, coarsely chopped 1½ tbsp red wine vinegar, or to taste
60 ml ( 1/ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
4
2 thin cacciatore salami, thinly sliced
1 Heat olive oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onion, chopped garlic and chilli flakes, and sauté until onion is tender (4-5 minutes). Add lentils and red wine, simmer until wine is reduced by half (1-2 minutes), then add stock, bay leaf and oregano sprig. Bring to the boil, then reduce heat to medium and simmer, half-covered with a lid, until lentils are just tender (20-25 minutes). Stir in cavolo nero and simmer until just wilted (2-3 minutes). Discard bay leaf and oregano sprig, add vinegar, and season generously to taste.
2 Heat extra-virgin olive oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat, add salami and fry, turning once, until crisp (1-2 minutes). Add sliced garlic and fry until light golden (20-30 seconds). Remove from heat and season to taste.
3 Spoon lentil mixture onto a platter, top with salami and garlic, and serve scattered with extra oregano.
Wine suggestion Savoury young nebbiolo.
Koshari
Every culture has its favourite comfort food and in Egypt it’s koshari. It’s hard not to be intrigued by a recipe that calls for a triple carb hit – rice, pasta and lentils. Served with a simple spiced tomato sauce that’s fragrant with baharat, and topped with a pile of crisp onion, no wonder it’s so well loved.
Prep time 25 mins, cook 40 mins
Serves 4-6 50 ml olive oil 200 gm (1 cup) basmati rice 560 ml (2¼ cups) hot vegetable stock or water 250 gm brown lentils
100 gm small macaroni
20 gm butter, coarsely chopped
2 onions, thinly sliced
Baharat tomato sauce
60 ml ( 1/ cup) olive oil 4 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 2½ tsp baharat (see note) ½ tsp dried chilli flakes 400 gm canned cherry tomatoes 200 gm canned chopped tomatoes 1 tbsp red wine vinegar, or to taste
1 For baharat tomato sauce, heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add onion and garlic, and sauté until tender (4-5 minutes). Stir in baharat and chilli flakes until fragrant, add tomatoes, season to taste and simmer until slightly thickened (6-7 minutes). Stir in vinegar, check seasoning and keep warm.
2 Heat 1 tbsp of oil in a saucepan over mediumhigh heat, add rice and stir to coat. Season to taste, then add stock, bring to a simmer and cover. Reduce heat to low-medium and cook without uncovering until rice is tender and liquid is absorbed (12-15 minutes). Set aside.
3 Meanwhile, cook lentils in a large saucepan of unsalted boiling water until almost tender
(6-8 minutes). Stir in pasta and cook until pasta is al dente (6-7 minutes). Drain, then stir lentils and pasta into rice, season to taste and keep warm.
4 Heat butter and remaining oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add onion and fry until golden brown and crisp (8-10 minutes).
5 To serve, divide lentil mixture among bowls, spoon tomato sauce on top and scatter with crisp onion.
Note Baharat is a Middle Eastern spice blend consisting of seven spices or more. It’s available from Middle Eastern delicatessens and Herbie’s Spices (herbies.com.au).
Drink suggestion Nutty dark porter.>
Koshari
Red lentil fritters with green yoghurt
These little morsels may be on the diminutive side, but they punch well above their weight in the flavour stakes. If you wanted to make them gluten-free, you could substitute the flour with teff flour.
Prep time 25 mins, cook 25 mins (plus cooling)
Serves 6 as a snack (pictured p97) 1½ tbsp olive oil ½ onion, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp coarsely crushed coriander seeds 2 tsp coarsely crushed cumin seeds 200 gm (1 cup) red lentils 2 eggs, separated 100 gm self-raising flour Finely grated rind of 1 lemon, plus lemon halves to serve
Vegetable oil, for shallow-frying
Green yoghurt
½ cup (firmly packed) coriander
1/ cup (firmly packed) flat-leaf parsley 3
2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 long green chilli, coarsely chopped ½ tsp ground cumin ¼ tsp ground cardamom 70 ml olive oil Juice of 1 lemon
250 gm thick plain yoghurt
1 Heat oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add onion and garlic and sauté until tender (4-5 minutes). Stir in spices and fry until fragrant (30 seconds), then add lentils and 650ml water, bring to a simmer, cover and cook until lentils are tender and liquid is absorbed (8-10 minutes). Transfer to a bowl to cool. 2 Meanwhile, for green yoghurt, process herbs, garlic, chilli, spices and 2 tbsp cold water in a small blender until coarsely chopped, add olive oil and lemon juice and process to a fine purée. Transfer to a bowl, season to taste, swirl in yoghurt and set aside.
3 Stir egg yolks into lentils, then stir in flour and lemon rind and season generously to taste. Whisk eggwhites and a pinch of salt in a separate bowl to firm peaks and fold into lentil mixture.
4 Preheat oven to 180C and heat 3cm oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat. When hot, add heaped tablespoonfuls of mixture in batches and cook, turning occasionally, until golden brown (2-3 minutes). Drain on paper towels and keep warm in oven while you cook remaining fritters. Serve hot with green yoghurt and lemon halves. Drink suggestion Refreshing Aperol Spritz.
Persian red lentil soup with tahini, beetroot and fried mint
Lentil soup may not sound like the sexiest of dishes, but rest assured, it’s a heart-warmer. We’ve added warming spices and served the soup with a dollop of garlicky tahini. Thin slivers of shaved raw beetroot add earthiness and texture – the beetroot is also excellent simply grated and piled on top. The poached egg is optional, but highly recommended.
Prep time 20 mins, cook 25 mins
Serves 4 (pictured p96) 80 ml ( 1/ cup) olive oil 3 1 Spanish onion, finely chopped 1 celery stalk, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped 2 tsp ground cumin 2 tsp ground coriander 2 tsp sweet paprika ½ tsp hot paprika Pinch of ground cinnamon 150 gm canned chopped tomatoes 1.5 litres vegetable or chicken stock 300 gm Persian red lentils (see note) ½ cup (loosely packed) mint Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 2 beetroot, peeled and thinly sliced on a mandolin
Poached eggs (optional), to serve
Garlic tahini
100 gm hulled tahini
80 gm thick natural yoghurt 1 garlic clove, finely chopped Juice of 1 lemon
1 Heat 2 tbsp oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, then sauté onion, celery and garlic until tender (4-5 minutes). Stir in spices and cook until fragrant (30 seconds). Add tomato and simmer until thickened (1-2 minutes). Add stock and lentils. Bring to the boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer, half-covered with a lid, until lentils are very tender (20-25 minutes).
2 Meanwhile, for garlic tahini, mix ingredients and 60ml hot water in a bowl, season to taste and set aside.
3 Heat remaining oil in a small saucepan over medium-high heat, add mint and fry until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels (discard oil).
4 Half-blend the lentil mixture with a hand-held blender, stir in lemon rind and juice, and season generously to taste. Ladle into serving bowls, add a swirl of garlic tahini, top with beetroot, poached egg and fried mint, and serve hot.
Note Persian red lentils are available at select delicatessens. If they’re unavailable, use black or green lentils instead.
Drink suggestion Rich amber ale.
Red lentil dhal
Dhal is classic comfort food, served in various iterations across the subcontinent. We’d happily eat it for breakfast, lunch and dinner. It’s even better the next day, so make a double batch to enjoy later.
Prep time 20 mins, cook 25 mins
Serves 6
250 gm (1¼ cups) red lentils, rinsed, drained 50 gm finely grated ginger 1 tsp ground turmeric 1 tsp Sri Lankan curry powder 1 cinnamon quill 500 ml (2 cups) coconut milk 8 fresh curry leaves, plus extra, fried, to serve 3 onions, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, crushed 2 long green chillies, thinly sliced 60 gm coconut oil 2 tsp brown mustard seeds 60 ml (¼ cup) coconut cream Juice of 1 lime, plus extra wedges, to serve Steamed basmati rice, coriander and warmed roti (optional), to serve
1 Combine lentils, ginger, turmeric, curry powder, cinnamon quill, coconut milk, curry leaves, a third of the onion, half the garlic and 1 green chilli in a saucepan. Add 350ml water, bring to the boil, reduce heat to medium and simmer, covered, until lentils are breaking down (20-25 minutes). 2 Meanwhile, melt coconut oil in a saucepan over medium heat, add mustard seeds, remaining onion, garlic and chilli and fry, stirring occasionally, until onions are tender and browned (5-6 minutes; be careful, mustard seeds and oil will spit). Remove from the heat and stir into lentils when they are ready. Add coconut cream and lime juice and season generously to taste with sea salt. Serve hot with rice, fried curry leaves, coriander and roti.
Drink suggestion Crisp cold lager.>
DHAL Bowl from Earth & Baker. Marble board from The Vignette Room. Dish from Golden Brown Fox Ceramics. Plates from Shelley Panton. TEXT PAGE Shallow dish from Olive + Joy. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p175. Red lentil dhal
Pork rib, black lentil and white bean stew
This deeply spiced braise of pork ribs, black lentils and white beans is proof that some things are worth the wait. A scattering of toasted crumbs adds irresistible crunch to an already moreish dish. Begin this recipe a day ahead to soak the beans.
Prep time 20 mins, cook 4½ hrs (plus overnight soaking)
Serves 4 60 ml ( 1/ cup) olive oil 4 1.2 kg pork ribs, cut into 2-rib portions 1 onion, thinly sliced 1 long red chilli, thinly sliced 2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced 2 tsp Dutch-process cocoa, sieved 2 tbsp smoked paprika 1 tsp ground ginger 1 tsp ground fennel 1 tsp ground cinnamon Pinch of ground cloves 1 tbsp Dijon mustard 400 gm canned chopped tomatoes 200 gm small black lentils (see note) 100 gm haricot or other small white beans, soaked overnight in cold water, drained 50 ml apple cider vinegar, or to taste
2 tbsp maple syrup 1 tbsp blackstrap molasses
1 fresh bay leaf
1 thyme sprig, plus 1 tbsp extra leaves,
to serve
2 tbsp coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley 2 tbsp oregano
Spicy crumbs
50 ml olive oil
150 gm crustless sourdough bread, torn 1 tbsp thyme 1 tbsp oregano 1 tbsp flat-leaf parsley 1 tbsp sage 1 garlic clove, coarsely chopped
1 long red chilli, thinly sliced
1 Preheat oven to 160C. Heat 1 tbsp oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Season ribs well and cook in batches until browned all over (2-3 minutes each side). Transfer to a plate.
2 Heat remaining oil in a large casserole and sauté onion, chilli and garlic over medium heat until tender (6-8 minutes). Add cocoa and spices and stir until fragrant (30 seconds), then stir in mustard. Add remaining ingredients, except parsley, oregano and extra thyme leaves, and
1.4 litres water, bring to the boil, then add ribs, cover, transfer to oven and braise, checking and stirring occasionally, until beans and pork are tender (3½-4 hours). Discard thyme sprig and bay leaf, stir in parsley, oregano and thyme leaves and season generously to taste.
3 Meanwhile, for herbed crumbs, process ingredients in a food processor to coarse crumbs, spread on a baking tray and bake, until crisp and golden brown (10-15 minutes). Scatter evenly over stew and serve hot.
Note Small black lentils are available from select delicatessens. If they’re unavailable, small green lentils would make a good substitute.
Wine suggestion Dense, full-bodied mataró.
Roast trout with warm green lentil and bacon dressing
Lentils and bacon are a match made in heaven – here they combine in a warm dressing served over a simple roast trout. A crisp slaw adds crunch and freshness, although a creamy mash would work equally well.
Prep time 30 mins, cook 25 mins
Serves 4-6 as a light meal 200 gm small green lentils ½ tsp fennel seeds ½ tsp white peppercorns Finely grated rind of 1 lemon, juice of ½ 1 side ocean trout (about 1.1kg), skinless, pin-boned 140 ml olive oil 2 golden shallots, diced 1 garlic clove, finely chopped 70 gm streaky bacon, cut into lardons 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, or to taste
Coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley, to serve
Brussels sprout and fennel slaw
200 gm Brussels sprouts, thinly shaved on a mandolin
1 small fennel bulb, thinly shaved on a mandolin, fronds reserved to serve 50 ml extra-virgin olive oil
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste
1 Preheat oven to 200C. Cook lentils in a saucepan of unsalted boiling water until just tender (18-20 minutes). Drain and set aside.
2 Meanwhile, dry-roast fennel seeds until fragrant (30 seconds; see cook’s notes p176). Cool slightly, then pound with a mortar and pestle with peppercorns, add rind and set aside. Place trout on a baking tray lined with baking paper, drizzle with 1½ tbsp olive oil and scatter with fennel seed mixture. Season to taste with sea salt and roast until cooked medium-rare (10-15 minutes).
3 Meanwhile, heat remaining olive oil in a saucepan over medium-high heat, add shallot and garlic and sauté until tender (3-4 minutes). Add bacon and fry until beginning to crisp (1-2 minutes), then stir in vinegar, lemon juice and lentils, season to taste, and keep warm. 4 For slaw, toss ingredients in a bowl to combine and season to taste.
5 Place roast trout on a serving platter, drizzle with warm lentil and bacon dressing, scatter with fennel fronds and serve warm with slaw.
Drink suggestion Crisp, dry cider.
MORE ONLINE
We continue our devotion to this loveliest of legumes online, with more lentil soups than you can poke a stick at. Find them at gourmettraveller.com.au Roast trout with warm green lentil and bacon dressing TROUT Platter from Earth & Baker. Plate and bowl from West Elm. Hand towel from The Vignette Room. RIBS Marble board from West Elm. Small dish from Golden Brown Fox Ceramics. Fabric (used as napkin) from Emily Ziz. All other props stylist’s own. Stockists p175.