The current menu gleefully remixes Latin and American flavours with a rock ’n’ roll sensibility.

Hot cross buns

“The newest Bodega classic – concocted around Easter; staying on the menu forever,” say Abrahanowicz and Milgate. “In true Bodega style, it’s a crazy combo of ingredients that just work.” The chefs make their own daikon kimchi; we’ve bought ours in.

Prep time 1 hr, cook 3 hrs 45 mins (plus proving)

Makes 9 (pictured p105)

350 gm piece of corned beef

1/ onion, coarsely chopped

2

1/ carrot, coarsely chopped

2

1/ celery stalk, coarsely chopped

2

1 fresh bay leaf

½ tsp black peppercorns

20 gm butter, diced

100 gm drained kimchi

50 gm pickled guindilla chillies (see note in pork belly recipe p105)

Hot cross buns

50 ml milk

25 gm molasses, plus 2 tsp extra for ` brushing

½ egg, lightly beaten

14 gm dried yeast

40 gm rye flour

1¼ tsp caster sugar

2 tsp Dutch-process cocoa

1 tsp ground cinnamon ¼ tsp ground allspice

¼ tsp ground cloves

¼ tsp ground ginger

250 gm (12/ cups) baker’s flour 3

75 gm margarine

Smoked oyster mayo

50 gm canned smoked oysters 1 egg yolk

2 tsp sherry vinegar

1 tsp hot English mustard 180 ml vegetable oil

1 Place corned beef, onion, carrot, celery, bay leaf and peppercorns in a saucepan, and cover with water (about 1.25 litres). Bring to the boil, reduce to a gentle simmer and cook until tender (3-3½ hours; top up with water when needed).

2 For hot cross buns, grease a 17cm-square cake tin and line with baking paper. Combine milk, molasses, egg and 75ml lukewarm water in a bowl, stir in yeast and stand in a warm place until foamy (4-5 minutes). Combine rye flour, sugar, cocoa, spices, 215gm baker’s flour and a pinch of salt in an electric mixer fitted with a dough hook, add margarine and mix to fine crumbs. Gradually add yeast mixture, and knead until smooth and elastic (7-8 minutes). Transfer to a lightly oiled bowl, cover with plastic wrap and stand in a warm place until doubled in size (1-2 hours). Divide into nine even pieces, roll into balls and place in prepared tin. Cover loosely with plastic wrap and stand until doubled in size (45-55 minutes). Preheat oven to 170C. Combine extra molasses with a few drops water and brush tops of buns. Mix remaining flour with enough water to form a thick paste (about 35ml), transfer to a piping bag with a

5mm plain nozzle and pipe crosses on the buns. Bake until golden brown and cooked through (20-25 minutes). Cool on a wire rack, then halve.

3 For smoked oyster mayo, process oysters, egg yolk, vinegar and mustard in a food processor to combine, then, with motor running, gradually add oil in a thin steady stream until thick and emulsified. Season to taste and refrigerate until required. Smoked oyster mayo will keep for 3 days. 4 Melt half the butter in a large frying pan over medium heat, add half the bun halves cut-side down and cook until toasted (3-4 minutes). Wipe pan with paper towels, and repeat with remaining butter and buns. Heat a char-grill pan to high heat. Drain and thinly slice corned beef, and grill until warm and slightly smoky (20-30 seconds each side).

5 To serve, spread oyster mayo on both sides of buns, fill each with 2 slices of corned beef, top with kimchi and chilli, sandwich with tops and secure with toothpicks or skewers.

Drink suggestion Ambar 1900 beer.