LOVE ME TENDER
Roast lamb is the definition of comfort food. Dressed up with layers of flavour and given time in the oven, it’s hard to beat.
Roast lamb is the definition of comfort food. Dressed up with layers of flavour and given time in the oven, it’s hard to beat the melt-in-the-mouth likes of Chinese-style ribs, slow-cooked shoulder with Indian spices and more.
Roast lamb neck with kale, feta and dill
Lamb neck is wet-roasted to fall-apart tenderness, and a nutty pilaf stuffing ramps up the comfort factor, while plenty of fragrant dill, oregano and parsley add punchy flavours.
Prep time 35 mins, cook 2¾ hrs (plus cooling, resting)
Serve 4-6
2 tsp fennel seeds
1 tbsp coarsely chopped thyme
2 tsp dried oregano, preferably rigani (Greek oregano; see note)
½ tsp dried red chilli flakes
5 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
2 tbsp coarsely chopped fresh oregano, plus extra leaves to serve
110 ml olive oil
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, plus extra wedges, to serve
2 boneless lamb necks (about 500gm each; see note), butterflied
150 ml dry white wine
500 ml (2 cups) chicken stock ½ leek, thinly sliced
4 cups (firmly packed) coarsely torn kale (about 2/ bunch)
3
2 tbsp coarsely chopped dill and flat-leaf parsley, plus extra to serve
Crumbled feta, coarsely chopped pitted green olives and thinly sliced spring onion, to serve
Rice stuffing
1 tbsp olive oil
20 gm butter, diced
30 gm coarsely chopped almonds ½ leek, finely chopped
½ small fennel bulb, finely chopped 1 garlic clove, finely chopped
75 gm long grain rice
200 ml hot chicken stock
2 tbsp finely chopped dill
2 tbsp finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 For rice stuffing, heat oil and butter in a small saucepan until butter foams, add almonds and stir occasionally until golden brown (1-2 minutes). Remove with a slotted spoon and set aside. Add leek, fennel and garlic to pan, sauté until tender and translucent (3-4 minutes), then stir in rice to coat and toast. Add stock, season to taste, bring to the boil, then reduce heat, cover with a lid and cook until rice is tender, and liquid is absorbed (15-18 minutes). Stir in almonds and cool completely, then stir in herbs.
2 Dry-roast fennel seeds in a small saucepan over medium-high heat until fragrant (30 seconds; see cook’s notes p177). Transfer to a mortar and pestle along with thyme, rigani, chilli, half the garlic, half the chopped fresh oregano and 2 tsp sea salt. Pound to a coarse paste, then stir in 60ml oil, rind and juice.
3 Preheat oven to 160C. Open out lamb necks on a chopping board, scatter half the rice stuffing down the centre of each, roll up and secure at intervals with kitchen string. Heat 1½ tbsp oil in a large frying pan over medium-high heat, add lamb necks and brown well all over (2-3 minutes). Pat dry with paper towels, brush with spice mixture, then place in a flameproof roasting pan or casserole with wine and half the stock, and bring to a simmer. Cover and roast for 1½ hours, then remove lid and roast until lamb is browned and cooked through (30-45 minutes). Set aside to rest for 15 minutes.
4 Meanwhile, heat remaining oil in a frying pan over medium-high heat, add leek and remaining garlic, and sauté until tender and translucent
(3-4 minutes). Add kale, sauté until it begins to wilt (1-2 minutes), then add remaining stock and simmer until kale is just tender (1-2 minutes). Stir in herbs and season to taste.
5 Cut twine from lamb, slice meat, scatter with feta, olives and extra herbs, and serve with braised kale and lemon wedges.
Note Rigani, dried wild Greek oregano, is available from select delicatessens. Order boneless lamb neck from your butcher.
Wine suggestion Earthy nebbiolo.
Mini lamb roast with baby carrots, kipflers and carrot-top pesto
Not all lamb roasts have to feed the hordes – mini lamb roasts are just perfect for two, or for one with leftovers for a lamb sandwich the next day. Crushed minted peas would be great to serve alongside this dish if the fancy takes you.
Prep time 20 mins, cook 40 mins (plus marinating, resting)
Serves 2 (pictured p115)
60 ml (¼ cup) olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
2 tsp finely chopped thyme
Finely grated rind and juice of ½ lemon 1 mini lamb roast (about 350gm)
300 gm small kipfler potatoes, scrubbed, halved 1 bunch Dutch carrots, trimmed (tops reserved), scrubbed and halved
1 tbsp coarsely chopped mint
1 tbsp coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Carrot-top pesto
½ cup (firmly packed) reserved carrot tops ½ cup (firmly packed) mint
1 garlic clove
Lamb neck is wet-roasted to fall-apart tenderness while a nutty pilaf stuffing ramps up the comfort factor.
1 spring onion, coarsely chopped
Finely grated rind and juice of ½ lemon 2 tsp capers in vinegar, drained
50 ml extra-virgin olive oil
50 ml olive oil
1 tsp red wine vinegar
1 Combine 2 tbsp oil, garlic, thyme, lemon rind and juice in a bowl and season to taste. Place lamb in a snap-lock bag large enough to hold it snugly. Pour in marinade, seal the bag and massage into lamb, then set aside to marinate and reach room temperature (1-1½ hours).
2 Preheat oven to 200C fan-forced. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat, remove lamb from marinade, add to pan and brown well all over. Transfer lamb to a roasting pan and roast until cooked to your liking (30-35 minutes for medium-rare, and internal temperature reads 54C-58C on a meat thermometer). Cover with foil and set aside to rest for 15 minutes.
3 Meanwhile, par-cook potatoes in a saucepan of boiling water until a knife inserted meets with just a little resistance (4-5 minutes), add carrots and boil for another 3 minutes, then drain well. Transfer vegetables to a roasting pan, toss with remaining oil, season to taste and roast until golden brown (25-30 minutes). Toss with mint and parsley and set aside.
4 Meanwhile, for carrot-top pesto, process ingredients except oils and vinegar in a food processor until finely chopped then, with motor running, gradually add oils and process to combine. Add vinegar, season to taste and process to combine, then serve spooned over sliced lamb with roasted vegetables.
Wine suggestion Elegant cabernet.
Roast rolled lamb loin with anchovies and rosemary
Anchovies and rosemary are a perfect match for lamb, adding just the right touch of savouriness and fragrance. We’ve roasted the lamb on top of the potatoes and fennel, but if you prefer your vegetables crisper, roast them in a separate pan.
Prep time 30 mins, cook 1 hr (plus marinating, resting)
Serves 6
6 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped, plus 1 head extra, halved
1 tbsp finely chopped rosemary, plus
2 extra sprigs
Finely grated rind of 1 lemon, juice of ½ lemon
1 tbsp olive oil, plus extra for drizzling 1 boneless lamb loin (about 1.2kg), fat trimmed
2 small fennel bulbs, fronds reserved 3 Desiree potatoes, scrubbed and cut into wedges
1 onion, cut into wedges
150 ml chicken stock
100 ml dry white wine
1½ tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
2 tsp white wine vinegar 1 Preheat oven to 200C. Pound anchovies, garlic, rosemary, lemon rind and a pinch of salt with a mortar and pestle to a rough paste, season to taste with freshly ground black pepper, then stir in olive oil. Place lamb loin flat on a work surface and spread with anchovy paste, roll into a cylinder then place rosemary sprigs on top. Secure at intervals with kitchen string, then stand at room temperature to marinate for 30 minutes.
2 Cut 1 fennel bulb into wedges and combine with remaining vegetables and head of garlic in a roasting pan, and season to taste. Place lamb on top, drizzle with a little extra olive oil, add stock, wine and half the lemon juice to pan, then roast until cooked to your liking (50 minutes to 1 hour for medium-rare, and internal temperature reads 54C-58C on a meat thermometer). Cover with foil and set lamb aside to rest for 15 minutes. Discard string.
3 Meanwhile, thinly shave remaining fennel on a mandolin and place in a bowl of iced water to crisp (10-15 minutes). Drain well, add fronds and, just before serving, dress with extra-virgin olive oil, vinegar and remaining lemon juice. Season to taste, toss to combine and serve with sliced lamb and pan vegetables.
Wine suggestion Savoury sangiovese.>
Shawarma-spiced roast lamb leg with beetroot sauce
This is a true roll-up-your-sleeves dish. Carve off some lamb and wrap it in flatbread with plenty of beetroot sauce and parsley salad – it’s all about getting stuck in. A simple side of braised lentils would round this off nicely.
Prep time 40 mins, cook 2¾ hrs (plus marinating, cooling, resting)
Serve 4-6
6 garlic cloves, peeled
4 preserved lemon quarters, rinsed, flesh discarded, rind coarsely chopped
2 tbsp baharat (see note)
1 tbsp Aleppo pepper (see note)
1 tbsp sumac
70 ml olive oil
1 lamb leg (about 1.7kg), bone in Warmed flatbread, to serve
Beetroot yoghurt sauce
2 beetroot, stalks trimmed
200 gm Greek-style yoghurt 2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil 1½ tbsp hulled tahini
Juice of 1 lemon, or to taste 2 garlic cloves
1 tsp Aleppo pepper (see note) 2½ tbsp olive oil
Parsley and onion salad
100 ml red wine vinegar
1 tsp caster sugar
1 Spanish onion, thinly sliced 1 cup torn mint
1 cup torn flat-leaf parsley 1 cup torn coriander
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil Juice of ½ lemon
1 For beetroot-yoghurt sauce, preheat oven to 200C. Wrap each beetroot in foil and roast until a knife inserts without resistance (40-45 minutes). Cool, then peel beetroot and coarsely chop. Process in a food processor with remaining ingredients until very smooth, season to taste and refrigerate until required.
2 Pound garlic and 2 tsp sea salt with a mortar and pestle to a paste, add preserved lemon rind, baharat, Aleppo pepper and sumac and pound to a paste (you can also do this in a small food processor). Stir in oil and season to taste. Slash lamb leg at 3cm-4cm intervals, rub spice paste all over and into incisions, cover with plastic wrap and marinate at room temperature for 1-1½ hours or overnight in the refrigerator (bring lamb to room temperature before cooking).
3 Preheat oven to 180C. Place lamb in a roasting pan and roast, basting occasionally with pan juices, until cooked to your liking (1 hour 45 minutes to 1 hour 55 minutes for medium-rare, and internal temperature reaches 54C-58C on a meat thermometer). Cover with foil and set aside to rest for 30 minutes.
4 For parsley and onion salad, bring vinegar and sugar to the boil in a small saucepan, add onion, remove from heat and set aside for 30 minutes to pickle. Drain, reserving a little liquid. Just before serving, add herbs, drizzle with oil, lemon juice and a little pickling liquid, season to taste and toss to combine. Serve salad with roast lamb, beetroot sauce and warmed flatbread.
Note Baharat, meaning seeds and flowers, is a Middle Eastern spice blend. It’s available from herbies.com.au or Middle Eastern delicatessens. Aleppo pepper is a hot dried Turkish chilli, available from Turkish grocers. If it’s unavailable, substitute roasted chilli flakes.
Wine suggestion Juicy gamay.
Sticky lamb ribs with chilli-vinegar
Finger-licking lamb ribs are irresistible, especially brushed with the sticky soy and chilli glaze we’ve made here. These ribs are perfect as a snack, but if you want to make a more substantial meal out of them, serve them with steamed jasmine rice and stir-fried Chinese greens.
Prep time 20 mins, cook 3 hrs 20 mins (plus marinating)
Serves 6 as a snack (pictured p114)
3 tsp white peppercorns
3 tsp cumin seeds
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
1 tbsp finely grated ginger
4 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped 1 tbsp vegetable oil
3 lamb rib racks (about 1.6kg)
Thinly sliced spring onion, to serve
Chilli glaze
200 ml Chinkiang vinegar
100 gm honey
60 ml soy sauce
2 tsp Chiu Chow chilli oil (see note) 1 tbsp finely grated ginger
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
Chilli vinegar
100 ml Chinkiang vinegar
50 ml soy sauce
1 tsp Chiu Chow chilli oil (see note) Pinch of caster sugar
1 Preheat oven to 140C. Dry-roast peppercorns and cumin seeds in a saucepan over medium heat until fragrant, adding chilli for the last 10 seconds (30 seconds; see cook’s note p177). Tip into a mortar, add 2 tsp sea salt and pound with a pestle until crushed, then set half aside. Add ginger and garlic to remainder, pound to a coarse paste, stir in oil, then rub all over lamb racks and leave to marinate for 30 minutes. Place lamb in a roasting pan lined with baking paper and roast for 2 hours, then turn and roast until lamb is tender and starts to pull away from the bone (30-40 minutes). Remove from oven and cut into individual ribs.
2 Meanwhile, for chilli glaze, simmer all ingredients in a saucepan over medium-high heat until mixture is reduced to a glaze consistency (15-20 minutes). 3 Increase oven to 200C. Place ribs on a baking tray lined with baking paper, brush with glaze and roast until sticky and glossy (8-10 minutes).
4 Meanwhile, for chilli vinegar, combine ingredients in a bowl and set aside.
5 Scatter ribs with reserved spices and spring onion and serve hot with chilli vinegar.
Note Chiu Chow chilli oil is a roasted chilli and garlic oil available from Chinese supermarkets. Wine suggestion Full-bodied shiraz.>
Lamb racks are often cooked hard and fast – in this case we’ve taken the slower road for ultra-tender results. Start this recipe a day ahead to soak the beans.
Prep time 20 mins, cook 1 hr (plus soaking, resting)
Serves 4
60 ml ( 1/ cup) olive oil
4
4 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 tsp finely chopped thyme, plus 8 sprigs extra
3 tsp finely chopped rosemary, plus 8 sprigs extra
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 2 8-cutlet lamb racks
Braised white beans
2 tbsp olive oil
1 carrot, 1 celery stalk and 1 onion, diced 2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
150 ml dry white wine
1 litre (4 cups) chicken stock
400 gm canned cherry tomatoes
375 gm dried cannellini beans, soaked in cold water overnight, drained
3 thyme sprig, plus extra leaves to serve 1 fresh bay leaf
Finely grated rind and juice of 1 lemon 1½ cups baby spinach
Black garlic aïoli
4 cloves black garlic (see note) 2 cloves garlic
2 egg yolks
150 ml olive oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp lemon juice
1 Combine oil, garlic, chopped herbs, and lemon rind and juice in a bowl, add the lamb and set aside to marinate at room temperature for 1 hour. 2 For braised beans, heat oil in a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add diced vegetables and sauté until tender (5-6 minutes), then stir in garlic and fry until fragrant (30 seconds). Add wine, simmer until reduced by half (1-2 minutes), then add stock, tomatoes and beans, stir to combine, and add herbs and rind. Bring to the boil, reduce heat to medium, half-cover with a lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, until beans are tender (45-50 minutes). Discard sprigs and bay leaf, stir in lemon juice and spinach, and season to taste.
3 Preheat oven to 100C. Place herb sprigs in a roasting pan and drain lamb from marinade. Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat, then brown lamb well all over, place on herb bed and roast until cooked to your liking (40-45 minutes for medium-rare, and internal temperature reaches 54C-58C on a meat thermometer).
Cover with foil and rest for 10 minutes.
4 For aïoli, blend black garlic, garlic and egg yolks in a food processor then, with motor running, add oil in a thin steady stream until mixture is thick and emulsified. Add vinegar and lemon juice, season to taste and process to combine; thin with a little hot water if necessary for a dollop consistency. Serve with lamb and bowls of braised beans. Note Black garlic, garlic that has been fermented, is available from select greengrocers and delicatessens, and tasmanianblackgarlic.com.au. If it’s unavailable, serve regular aïoli instead.
Wine suggestion Rustic carignan.