City hitlist
Trieste matches its rich heritage with Old World charm.
On the border with the Balkans, Trieste, one of Italy’s most storied cities, matches its rich heritage with Old World charm, writes Caroline Hamilton.
STAY
Savoia Excelsior Palace The ornate Excelsior is a reminder of the city’s Belle Époque past as a key port of the Austro-Hungarian empire – Emperor Franz Josef has been among the hotel’s illustrious guests. Most of its spacious rooms have impressive views over the Gulf of Trieste to the Adriatic. Riva del Mandracchio, 4, starhotels.com
L’Albero Nascosto Located amid the steep, winding streets that were once home to the city’s Jewish merchants, the area surrounding this boutique hotel is a hive of bars, restaurants and bespoke retailers, and the best place to witness the city’s revival. Each of the 10 large, modern rooms is individually styled with a mix of antique and contemporary furniture. Via Felice Venezian, 18, alberonascostotrieste.com
SEE
Castello Miramare Follow the coastline east to this castle atop the promontory of Grignano, a 10-minute drive from the city centre. Built by Archduke Ferdinand Maximilian of Hapsburg for his wife, Charlotte, in 1860, it’s an eclectic blend of medieval, Renaissance, and Gothic styles. The real attraction is the view and the chance to swim in crystal-clear water, if the season allows. Viale Miramare, castello-miramare.it Teatro Verdi
Like many of the city’s most notable buildings, and the city itself, Teatro Verdi has had various name changes over the years. The glory of this building, however, has never changed. Opened in 1801, Trieste’s stunning opera house was modelled on the famed La Scala in Milan and still stages regular seasons of opera, dance and classical music. Riva 3 Novembre, 1, teatroverdi-trieste.com
SHOP
Pop a couple of classic Italian labels in your suitcase during your stay. Katastrofa stocks a range of travel-friendly trinkets such as tortoiseshell eyewear cases and Pucci-print scarves along with highly covetable designer vintage furniture and collectables (Via Armando Diaz, 4, katastrofa.it). Boutique jeweller Liberty specialises in Art Deco items such as Lalique and vintage brooches, earrings and cufflinks by Cartier and Verdura (Via del Ponte, 7).
Libreria Antiquaria Umberto Saba, once managed by celebrated Trieste poet Umberto Saba, is heaven for bibliophiles and anyone who loves first editions and service with Old World charm (Via San Nicolò,
30, libreriasaba.it).