Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

Smalls, Melbourne

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Smalls is about more than truth in naming. Yes, the 24-seat South Melbourne bar is tiny, but it’s all about considered focus rather than a lack of space. The wine list sticks to small producers that are only stocked in small amounts so the roster is always being refreshed with something new and exciting. There’s a European emphasis but always plenty of interestin­g New World stuff in the mix, plus an ever-changing tap beer (local, craft) and a compact list of snacks that includes quality charcuteri­e, oysters, luxe cheese toasties and fried chicken skin. A beautifull­y finished (marble, parquetry, concrete) fit-out means that Smalls is also beautiful.

IN SHORT Packs a big punch.

 ??  ?? SMALLS, MELBOURNE
SMALLS, MELBOURNE

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