Working with Peter Doyle: his protégés speak

JOSH NILAND, Saint Peter, Sydney

One frantic Friday lunch service we saw a docket come through for a table of four: all the normal Est dishes and sides – but one customer had ordered a cheese omelette. Peter leapt off the pass calling for eggs and cheese. To watch a true master handle two humble ingredients with such vigour and enthusiasm was not only inspiring, but also summed up Peter as a chef. The three words that always come to mind when describing Peter Doyle are restraint, generosity, and, above all, humility.

JORDAN TOFT, Bert’s, Sydney

Peter taught me that it’s the little things that count – the steps decide the outcome, and the knowledge and understanding of what you’re doing ultimately produces the goods. “Keep your grill clean,” he’d say; even if the guest would never know the difference, you’d know – and knowing the difference made you a particular kind of chef. Not that he’d explain this to you in so many words; it was for you to discover.

KARL FIRLA, Oscillate Wildly, Sydney

Working at Est, I always had a great deal of admiration for Peter’s constant presence in a busy kitchen, driving a powerful team of chefs – most of them half his age – and still maintaining relevance in the industry. He was a master of the fundamentals of his craft, committed to educating his staff, and proving that it doesn’t have to be about smoke and mirrors.