Getting there

Qantas, Asiana and Korean Air fly direct from Sydney to Seoul.

Stay

Four Seasons Hotel Seoul Located in the CBD, which might lack charm but is convenient for sightseeing, this is an exceptional hotel, with views across the city and mountains, seven restaurants and bars, helpful staff, and a Korean sauna. 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongno-gu,

+82 2 6388 5000, fourseasons.com/seoul Signiel Seoul The city’s newest luxury offering is perched on the 76th floor and above in Lotte World Tower, the world’s fifth-tallest building. Rooms are spacious and make for a tranquil, grown-up retreat from the city below. 76F-101F, 300 Olympic-ro, Songpa-gu,

+82 2 3213 1000, lottehotel.com/signielseoul

Eat

Jungsik Chef Jungsik Yim practically invented modern Korean cuisine, and his refined French-Korean fusion continues to attract a moneyed international crowd in the heart of fashionable Gangnam. 11 Seolleungro 158-gil, Gangnam-gu, +82 2 517 4654, jungsik.kr Mokmyeoksanbang This mountain house specialises in bibimbap. Don’t miss the acorn jelly salad for a traditional taste of Korea. 627 Namsangongwon-gil, Jung-gu, +82 2 318 4790 Balwoo Gongyang Seasonal vegetarian fare is served in sparse private dining rooms, prepared by monks from an adjacent temple. 56 Ujeongguk-ro, Jongno-gu, +82 2 733 2081, balwoo.or.kr Byeok-je Galbi This highly regarded chain specialises in beef ribs seared over coals at the table. Also try the vinegary Pyeongyang cold buckwheat noodles, a North Korean favourite. 13-20 Changcheon-dong, Seodaemun-gu, +82 2 392 8308, ibjgalbi.com Yu Yuan Upscale Cantonese restaurant evoking 1920s Shanghai in the Four Seasons, specialising in Peking duck.

Drink

Charles H. A New York-style speakeasy bar with a Korean twist in the basement of the Four Seasons has become the city’s premier cocktail destination.

The Manhattan flight is particularly

well done. 97 Saemunan-ro, Jongnogu,+82 2 6388 5000, fourseasons.com/ seoul/dining/lounges/charles_h/

Gwangjang Night Market This is where locals come to relax, enjoying excellent street food and plenty of drinks at trestle tables. 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno-gu Alice This lounge-style bar serves whimsical cocktails and equally outré bar snacks such as caramel Pringles. 47 Dosandaero 55-gil, Gangnam-gu, +82 2 511 8420, alicecheongdam.com

Shop

Garosugil “Café street”, as locals call it, is lined with ginkgo trees and has some of the city’s most interesting shopping. At Line Friends Café & Store, emojis are transformed into plush toys; hand cream becomes high art at Tamburins.

National Souvenir Center This government-run operation selects the best versions of Korean handicrafts including taekwondo socks, silver teapots, mother-of-pearl wares, pottery and textiles. 14 Insadong 5-gil, Jongno-gu, +82 2 756 3361, en.souvenir.or.kr Stylenanda Pink Hotel A high-tech, pink concept store featuring on-trend denim and cosmetics, as well as a fairy-floss café staffed by K-pop lookalikes. 37-8 Myeongdong 8-gil, Chungmuro 2, Jung-gu, +82 2 752 4546, stylenanda.com

See

Bukchon Hanok Village This upper-class area once reserved for military officials is filled with traditional houses, charming street scenes and city views.

Gyeongbokgung Palace Established in 1395 as the main palace of the

Joseon Dynasty, its gardens, filled with lotus ponds and cherry blossoms, are particularly pretty. The National Palace Museum shows household goods from the Royal Court. 161 Sajik-ro, Jongno-gu Dongdaemun Design Plaza A Zaha Hadid-designed exhibition centre in the heart of the fashion district, surrounded by malls that open until 5am daily. D281 Eulji-ro, Jung-gu, +82 2 2153 0000, ddp.or.kr More visitkorea.org.au