CURED SNAPPER, TANGELO, POLLEN YOGHURT AND PICKLED DULSE, Birch

When snapper, cured with seaweed and teamed with slivers of tangelo, gets a second seaside-hit from pickled dulse, you could be forgiven for almost expecting to catch a glimpse of the surf in the windows rather than the frost-rimed branches of the Southern Highlands. Birch, 2/249 Argyle St, Moss Vale, NSW, (02) 4868 1817.