The verdict on tablecloths
When Sydney restaurant Quay (above; see our review p55) reopened, the decision to ditch the linen sparked controversy. Are tablecloths a necessity in fine dining? We put it to Australia’s top chefs and restaurateurs.
No: “A clothless table in fine dining is not a new thing: either today, with restaurants such as Noma, or in the Tudor times of the 16th century,” says John Fink, of The Fink Group.
Maybe: “We have about a 50/50 split of tables with tablecloths and tables with granite tops,” says Ben Shewry, of Melbourne’s Attica. Yes: At Sydney’s Aria, Matt Moran believes tablecloths are part of “the magic of a great dining experience”.