The ver­dict on table­cloths

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - News -

When Syd­ney restau­rant Quay (above; see our re­view p55) re­opened, the de­ci­sion to ditch the li­nen sparked con­tro­versy. Are table­cloths a ne­ces­sity in fine dining? We put it to Aus­tralia’s top chefs and restau­ra­teurs.

No: “A cloth­less ta­ble in fine dining is not a new thing: ei­ther to­day, with restau­rants such as Noma, or in the Tu­dor times of the 16th cen­tury,” says John Fink, of The Fink Group.

Maybe: “We have about a 50/50 split of ta­bles with table­cloths and ta­bles with gran­ite tops,” says Ben Shewry, of Melbourne’s At­tica. Yes: At Syd­ney’s Aria, Matt Mo­ran be­lieves table­cloths are part of “the magic of a great dining ex­pe­ri­ence”.

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