Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - 2019 Australian Restaurant Guide -

No pres­sure. But when you’re run­ning one of the most vis­i­ble, cel­e­brated and (yes) ex­pen­sive restau­rants in the coun­try, and you spend three months and many mil­lions re­think­ing the place from the carpet up, there’s go­ing to be a cer­tain amount of scrutiny from the ded­i­cated din­ers of Aus­tralia when you throw open the doors. Such is the na­ture of a spe­cial-oc­ca­sion restau­rant; your guests de­velop an emo­tional in­vest­ment in what you do. They don’t think of it as your place, but as their place. (Re­tire your snow egg at your peril, and be care­ful what you do with your table­cloths.) But just about every­thing at the new Quay has been done to put the fo­cus back on the diner.

Peter Gil­more is no one-trick pony and The Fink Group’s big gam­ble has paid off. The new Quay does every­thing the old Quay did – the daz­zling food, the sense of oc­ca­sion – while trim­ming away the hint of the rote, of the pro­duc­tion-line that had ran­kled with some din­ers. Our re­view­ers noted in last year’s guide that cer­tain “naff, nanna and neg­li­gent” as­pects of ser­vice had be­gun to creep into the ex­pe­ri­ence.

A year down the track and the Quay of to­day is a long way from any of those things. Jeremy Cour­ma­dias, a Le Caprice alum­nus who gave new pol­ish to Rock­pool Bar & Grill in his pre­vi­ous job, has brought a very wel­come trans­for­ma­tion to the ser­vice cul­ture. And Gil­more and his team, rev­el­ing in a new-build kitchen, are flex­ing their mus­cles anew. It’s a new

Quay, and there’s no other restau­rant quite like it. (See Pat Nourse’s full re­view on page 55.) Quay, Up­per Level, Over­seas Pas­sen­ger Ter­mi­nal, The Rocks, NSW, (02) 9251 5600

From far left: gen­eral man­ager of The Fink Group, Jeremy Cour­ma­dias, Quay ex­ec­u­tive chef Peter Gil­more and cre­ative di­rec­tor of The Fink Group John Fink. Be­low left: sand crab with Ten­nouji turnip, kombu, squid and Wake­field cab­bage. Pre­vi­ous page: “white coral” – fei­joa, white cho­co­late and co­conut.

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from Australia

© PressReader. All rights reserved.