EDITOR’S LETTER
The outpouring of grief and shock was immediate and overwhelming. Not only did the newly reopened Quay not have the snow egg on the menu, it was also missing its tablecloths. It was a lot of change, all at once. I can empathise: I fear change and I’m a passionate advocate for always saving room for dessert, especially when
Peter Gilmore is cooking.
As I took my seat in the newly reopened and tablecloth-free Quay earlier this month, I overheard the couple behind me discussing which of Gilmore’s two new desserts might be “most like the egg”. The fervour and passion for the menu at Quay isn’t limited to Sydneysiders, though – a dedicated diner from Melbourne, who couldn’t get a booking before the restaurant’s hiatus, tried to negotiate bringing an Esky to the final service so that he could enjoy one last snow egg to take away.
There’s perhaps no other restaurant in Australia that people feel more connected to than Quay. So the stakes were dizzyingly high when the restaurant shut its doors earlier this year to undergo a multi-million dollar renovation and a complete reinvention of the menu.
So what’s our verdict on the new Quay? Just five weeks after opening it has taken out the coveted title of
Gourmet Traveller’s Restaurant of the
Year – turn to Pat Nourse’s review on page 55 for all the finer details. The overarching message: Quay occupies a very special place in the culinary landscape of this country. It’s achieved that through consistent excellence over almost two decades with a powerful combination of Gilmore’s innovative food, an unparalleled dedication to service and, when cruise ships allow, those expansive views across one of the most beautiful harbours in the world. It has a sense of occasion quite unlike anywhere else, and the diners who have experienced it all feel like they own a little piece of the magic.
It’s a joy to celebrate another milestone in the lifetime of this illustrious restaurant, and it’s equally exciting to celebrate so many newcomers and established favourites throughout all of the categories in this year’s Restaurant Awards. A heartfelt congratulations to all of the winners. You’ll find them on page 69. And of course, for reviews of all of Australia’s best restaurants, keep our Restaurant Guide within arm’s reach at all times.
As for those two new desserts at Quay, neither were quite like the snow egg, but both were rather incredible. I particularly loved the “white coral”, an aerated whitechocolate ganache on top of coconut cream and feijoa ice-cream. It’s probably worth swinging by with an Esky, if the time ever comes when that’s allowed.
Enjoy the issue,
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