Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Oct - Recipes OLIVER ED­WARDS & BRI­ANNA SMITH Words & styling LISA FEATHERBY Drink sug­ges­tions AARON FEN­WICK

There’s a feel­good warmth to the food cre­ated at The Sum­mer­town Aris­tol­o­gist in the Ade­laide Hills.

A shar­ing phi­los­o­phy, DIY ethos and pro­duce as lo­cal as it gets – there’s a feel-good warmth to the food cre­ated by chefs Oliver Ed­wards and Bri­anna Smith at Ade­laide Hills’ sun­ni­est spot, The Sum­mer­town Aris­tol­o­gist.

In some ways, The Sum­mer­town Aris­tol­o­gist was built for an au­di­ence of one. Wine­maker An­ton van Klop­per, of Lucy Mar­gaux fame, had been pin­ing for the sort of places he fre­quented when he was in France – bars that poured his kind of wine and served his kind of food. The choice, in the end, he says, was to ei­ther move to Paris or make some­thing of his own back home in the Ade­laide Hills. Luck­ily for us, he went with the sec­ond op­tion.

The Sum­mer­town Aris­tol­o­gist was the re­sult. Opened in spring 2016 by van Klop­per, fel­low Bas­ket Range wine­maker Jasper But­ton, of Com­mune of But­tons, and for­mer Orana man­ager Aaron Fen­wick, it quickly gained a rep­u­ta­tion for ser­vice and food un­der orig­i­nal chef Tom Ed­wards that ex­ceeded the ex­pec­ta­tions set by its re­laxed, friendly, con­verted-shop set­ting.

Un­der chefs Oliver Ed­wards and Bri­anna Smith, who took over the kitchen in 2017, the Aris­tol­o­gist has gone from strength to strength. Not that their work is con­fined to the kitchen. The restau­rant opens Fri­day through Sun­day, and the rest of the week Ed­wards and Smith are in the gar­den. “It’s about grow­ing as much as we can, and buy­ing the rest from farm­ers with sim­i­lar philoso­phies,” says Ed­wards. Around 90 per cent of the fresh pro­duce they use comes from their gar­den patch, just 10 min­utes’ drive away. They buy meat a sin­gle beast at a time, turn­ing the bulk into char­cu­terie prod­ucts. “We make two types of saucis­son, pro­sciutto, lardo, guan­ciale.”

That DIY ethos runs through ev­ery­thing they do. Grains are milled daily for Kho­rasan sour­dough, and ke­fir cul­tures but­ter and cream. Jars of pick­les line the bench, stand­ing to lacto-fer­ment. Any left­over fer­ments are turned into pow­ders, like some kind of bril­liant zero-waste alchemy. A lo­cal glass­blower makes the wine glasses, and the ce­ram­ics are made in nearby Stir­ling.

Here we’ve asked Ed­wards and Smith to share the dishes that they like to serve friends. “The sea­sonal kraut is a must to start, with char­cu­terie and bread,” says Ed­wards. From there it’s a veg­etable-for­ward af­fair in the likes of charred broc­coli with fu­rikake. Ed­wards is an ad­vo­cate for sus­tain­able fish, and that in­forms his choice of species here – char-grilled whit­ing, served sim­ply with seaweed but­ter and a squeeze of lemon. And to fin­ish? A spelt and frangi­pane tart, tangy with rhubarb. Whole­some food need not feel like pri­va­tion, says Ed­wards. Take your time and fo­cus on cre­at­ing a meal that’s about “feel­ing nour­ished, not full.” The Sum­mer­town Aris­tol­o­gist, 1097 Green­hill Rd, Sum­mer­town, SA, 0477 410 105, the­sum­mer­tow­nar­is­tol­o­

Pho­tog­ra­phy MARK ROPER

PRE­VI­OUS PAGE Chefs Bri­anna Smith and Oliver Ed­wards. This page, be­low: Ed­wards, co-owner Aaron Fen­wick, and friend Mad­die Skip­pen. Sea­sonal mixed kraut with char­cu­terie

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