Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Sydney Review -


A CBD si­b­ling to the Dou­ble Bay favourite, Matteo Down­town has opened to packed ser­vices on Bond Street. Chef Orazio D’Elia min­gles south­ern-Ital­ian oomph with deft tech­nique, serv­ing prawn crudo with strac­ciatella from the moz­zarella bar, puffy pizze from the wood-fired oven, pan-roasted quails with farro, and lin­guine with von­gole and sea spray (above) along­side the city’s most hand­some bu­ca­tini alla gri­cia. Throw in a siz­able bar and plenty of out­door seat­ing, and you’ve got a new sum­mer favourite. 20 Bond St, Syd­ney, (02) 9241 2008


It seemed a bit strange at the time, mov­ing a busi­ness just one ten­ancy up the same block, yet that move, plus the ac­com­pa­ny­ing fit-out, has made

Bills Surry Hills some­thing to talk about. More in line with the look of the Bondi branch, the Crown Street café’s de­sign, by Syd­ney firm Meacham Nock­les, is exquisite, bev­elled and cham­fered like a Jony Ive gone Deco. And yes, the scram­bled eggs are per­fectly en pointe. 359 Crown St, Surry Hills, (02) 9360 4762


Is it too much to say Michael West has brought a touch of the Provençal sum­mer to his menus at Love, Tilly Devine? The young Au­tomata alum spent the north­ern sum­mer cook­ing in Ar­les, and it’s tempt­ing to draw a line be­tween that and the sunny el­e­gance of his silverbeet with whey and green olives, and peas with sheep’s curd and mar­jo­ram. It’s bril­liant stuff re­gard­less. 91 Crown La, Dar­linghurst, (02) 9326 9297

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