Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Quick Meals - 251 Bondi Rd, Bondi, (02) 9130 2894, ode­bar.com

Nat­u­ral wine by the carafe. Mecca cof­fee. A char­coal grill. This charm­ing café-bar-restau­rant is many things at dif­fer­ent hours. Break­fast in­cludes Iggy’s toast with soft-boiled eggs and smoky egg­plant, while aper­i­tivo might mean a glass of un­fined Rosso Masieri from Veneto ac­com­pa­nied by mus­sels on toast. Ode chef

Ben Abiad has clocked time at

Dear Sainte Éloise and Sean’s, so you can rest as­sured that pasta dishes such as ca­cio e pepe with an­chovy, and Parma-ham ag­nolotti in parme­san broth have soul.

What to or­der: The wine list cel­e­brates lesser-known min­i­mal-in­ter­ven­tion Ital­ian, French and Aus­tralian wine. Try some­thing new.

Above: scal­lops with rose­mary and an­chovies, and mus­sels on toast with drinks at Ode. Be­low: the Mar­rickville at Poor Toms Gin Hall.

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