Ode

Natural wine by the carafe. Mecca coffee. A charcoal grill. This charming café-bar-restaurant is many things at different hours. Breakfast includes Iggy’s toast with soft-boiled eggs and smoky eggplant, while aperitivo might mean a glass of unfined Rosso Masieri from Veneto accompanied by mussels on toast. Ode chef

Ben Abiad has clocked time at

Dear Sainte Éloise and Sean’s, so you can rest assured that pasta dishes such as cacio e pepe with anchovy, and Parma-ham agnolotti in parmesan broth have soul.

What to order: The wine list celebrates lesser-known minimal-intervention Italian, French and Australian wine. Try something new.

Above: scallops with rosemary and anchovies, and mussels on toast with drinks at Ode. Below: the Marrickville at Poor Toms Gin Hall.