Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - Quick Meals - Mor­nane Pl, Mel­bourne, (03) 9662 2413, ar­

This tiny bar, the new­est ad­di­tion to the Grossi fam­ily’s hos­pi­tal­ity sta­ble, has all the so­phis­ti­ca­tion of Florentino with the spon­tane­ity and fun of Cel­lar Bar. To look at the dra­matic vaulted ceil­ing and the stained glass in the wine cab­i­nets, you’d never guess it was born by ac­ci­dent. “We took the space over as a cel­lar for all the venues,” says Guy Grossi, “and then it dawned on us to turn it into a bar.” Start (or end) your night with ItaloAus­tralian wines, and cock­tails by Romeo Lane’s Joe Jones. And keep things tick­ing over with sour­dough bread with more­tum, a Ro­man herb and cheese spread, or a cab­bage steak with fer­mented chilli. The best part? The kitchen’s open till 3am. What to or­der: A twirl of Mid­night Spaghetti with sugo, co­latura di alici, ca­pers and chilli, is a must.

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