Trip notes

In town

While winery restaurants remain a diner’s best bet in the region, options grow ever more varied in the township of Margaret River (regular population, about 14,000; number of traffic lights, still zero). Among recent openings are Pizzica (73 Bussell Hwy, 08 9758 7361),a pizzeria and charcoal grill that serves pliable, elegant and sparsely topped pizza; and small bar Yonder (124 Bussell Hwy), a neon-lit fantasy of ’80s rock and Australiana. Brew Shack (2/124 Bussell Hwy, 08 9758 8338) serves the town’s best coffee, while Burger Baby (1/115 Bussell Hwy, 08 9757 9991) is your destination for buns. The Margaret River Farmers’

Market (272 Bussell Hwy, 08 9757 9095) runs every Saturday morning at the Margaret

River Education Campus. Yallingup Woodfired Bread, meanwhile, has begat Margaret River Woodfired Bread (cnr Boodjidup & Burton Rds, 08 9758 7979) just south of town; drop by from 3pm for loaves still warm from the oven.

Around town

On 16-18 November, Margaret River Gourmet Escape spans 45 food-and-wine events in more than 25 locations, from a pop-up Mexican cantina and a traditional kaiseki, to a vegan Italian feast and a Chinese banquet. There will be barbecues on beaches, feasts in the forest and tea parties in the vineyards. Much of the culinary action is centred at Leeuwin Estate, where 120 WA producers, winemakers and restaurateurs will share stories. gourmetescape.com.au