POTATO FLATBREAD, Lesa

You’d be happy with this charred, fermented potato number on its own. But then, swipe it through a pale, rich macadamia cream with a dash of cherry-blossom vinegar, and a glistening umamibomb of a shiitake oil and the balance is remarkable. The flavour is what you dream about when you can’t pinpoint exactly what it is you want to eat – this is it. Lesa, Level 1, 122 Russell St, Melbourne, Vic, (03) 9654 5923.

MICHAEL HARDEN, VICTORIA EDITOR