Nice catch

Gourmet Traveller (Australia) - - News -

The best Por­tuguese seafood, all wrapped up in a neat pack­age.

In Por­tu­gal, canned fish is far more than a standby sta­ple, but it still doesn’t hold the same sto­ried rep­u­ta­tion as the tins from its Ibe­rian neigh­bour. When José first launched its range (above), it was in a wave of com­pa­nies look­ing to change that. For them, that also meant com­mis­sion­ing il­lus­tra­tors to de­sign la­bels that could put the pack­ag­ing on equal foot­ing with the qual­ity of the pre­serves.

The range, which in­cludes the likes of spiced oc­to­pus in olive oil, and sar­dine pâté, will be on show when Miss Wolf, a new bar with a fo­cus on canned seafood, opens in Syd­ney’s Mar­rickville this month: the team is dec­o­rat­ing a wall with the cans and they’ll be serv­ing fish straight from the tin.

A col­lab­o­ra­tion be­tween chef Max Mal­colm, Tracey Gumm and Si­mon Wheeler, Miss Wolf will also be serv­ing fun cock­tails and cool-cli­mate Mex­i­can wines. But it’s the seafood that has Mal­colm ex­cited.

He re­calls vis­it­ing Cas­cais, a fish­ing town near Lis­bon, and din­ing on a can of ba­cal­hau à la­gareiro, salted cod and pota­toes packed in olive oil, with an ice-cold beer, olives and bread. Miss Wolf is a chance to bring that ex­pe­ri­ence home.

A sim­i­lar story in­spired Dario Guer­reiro, of The Canned Com­pany, to dis­trib­ute the cans in Aus­tralia. He men­tions an­other coastal bar, this one in Setúbal, where he’d or­dered a dish of squid in ragú. “To my shock, the waiter brought out a wooden board with a pretty card­board box and a half-open tin,” he says. He was scep­ti­cal, but it was so good that he now sup­plies the cans to lo­cal shops, in­clud­ing Bris­bane’s VJ’s Seafood, and

Marino Meat and Food Store in Ade­laide.

“It opened my eyes to Por­tuguese tins and their un­tapped po­ten­tial.”

Miss Wolf, 285 Mar­rickville Rd, Mar­rickville, NSW, 0409 400 279, miss­

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