Ragù Bolognese

SERVES 6 // PREP TIME 15 MINS // COOK 2 HRS

Italian cuisine is a great traveller. On menus from Taipei to Tehran it’s greeted like an old friend, though the burghers of Bologna might not recognise Chinese Bolognese pizza, nor might the Romans embrace carbonara alla Tokyo.

Some of the most exciting openings in Australia this past year have been Italian – with varying degrees of “ish” – and it’s a measure of the remarkable diversity within cucina Italiana, its shape-shifting versatility and irresistible appeal, that we can hanker after Indianspiced trippa alla Romana (Alberto’s Lounge, Sydney) and bug-tail carpaccio spiked with yuzu and seaweed dust (Fico, Hobart).

In our Italian issue, we catch this new wave of Australian-Italian and chart the “respectful reinvention” underway. We also return to il bel paese, back to its glorious traditions and the source of all this delicious

Italo inspiration. GT contributor

Katie Parla celebrates the lost and

disappearing dishes of Italy’s south. We roll up our sleeves for a masterclass in making perfect pasta. We line up for Sicilian cannoli and spaghetti con bottarga, and delve into the curious twinned history of ragù, Bolognese and Napoletano.

Whether you find your best Italian in the Veneto or Victoria, bring the freshest produce to the table, share it with family and friends, and relax. These joys are universal.

Buon appetito,

Chef Andreas Papadakis of Tipo 00 simmers his ragù Bolognese with a spice bag, which adds hints of cinnamon, cloves, bay leaf and thyme. Serve with pasta of your choice and finely grated parmesan.

125 ml (½ cup) olive oil

500 gm coarsely minced beef (medium fat)

300 gm coarsely minced pork (medium fat)

1 carrot, diced

1 onion, chopped

1 small celery stalk, diced

1 tbsp finely chopped garlic (about 3 cloves)

125 gm tomato paste

250 ml dry red wine

2 thyme sprigs

1 fresh bay leaf

1 small cinnamon quill

2 cloves 750 ml (3 cups) chicken stock 1 Heat a large saucepan over medium-high heat, add oil and minced meats and cook, stirring occasionally, until browned

(5-8 minutes). Reduce heat to medium, add vegetables and garlic, and cook until softened (5-6 minutes). Add tomato paste and stir until colour deepens (2-3 minutes), then deglaze pan with wine, scraping base of pan, until almost completely reduced (5-6 minutes). Tie herbs and spices in a piece of muslin with string to form a bundle, then add to pan with stock, season to taste and simmer uncovered over low heat until sauce thickens (1-1½ hours). Discard spice bag and season to taste.