Crumbed sardines

SERVES 4

“Sardines are the most loved fish of the Triestini,” says Bacchia. “The sardines caught in the northern Adriatic waters are under a year old and white-fleshed. They are best coated with breadcrumbs and fried until golden. I fillet the fish by gently separating the head, using my fingers and removing the spine.”

20 very fresh sardines, about 10cm in length, butterflied (see note) 50 gm (1/3 cup) plain flour 2 eggs

Splash of milk 70 gm (1 cup) dried breadcrumbs, preferably homemade

Extra-virgin olive oil, for shallow-frying

Lemon wedges, to serve

1 Wash sardines and pat dry with paper towels. Tip flour into a bowl, whisk egg and milk in a second bowl, and add breadcrumbs to a third bowl. Coat one fillet at a time in flour, then dip in eggwash and drop into the breadcrumbs, making sure sardines are well coated. Transfer to a plate. 2 Pour oil into a large shallow frying pan to 3mm-5mm deep and heat over medium-high heat. When oil is hot, carefully add 5-7 fish (depending on size of pan) and cook for 1 minute or until breadcrumbs are golden, then turn and fry the other side for less than a minute. Remove sardines from pan and drain on paper towels. Repeat with remaining sardines.

3 Season sardines to taste with sea salt and serve hot with lemon wedges. If you were in Trieste in the summer, you would probably serve the sardines with a cold beer.

Note You can butterfly sardines yourself, or ask your fishmonger for butterflied sardines.