Trip notes
Getting there
Danish Air Transport operates year-round flights from Palermo and Trapani; Alitalia flies direct to the island in summer from Rome and Milan. Siremar and Liberty Lines operate car ferries from Trapani.
All transport is weather-dependent, particularly in late spring when winds can be wild. Car rental is available at Destino Pantelleria (see right) or Sicily by Car.
Eat
Osteria Il Principe e Il Pirata The best eatery on the island, this osteria is familyrun, uses local produce and has a regional wine list. Even better is the view from its large terrace overlooking Punta Karace on the island’s east coast. Strada Punta Karace, ilprincipeeilpirata.it
Panificio Terremoto The bakery’s woodfired oven turns out excellent bread and pizze, and local specialties include bacio and the intricate mustazzoli. Via Khamma, +39 092 391 5039
Kayà Kayà This portside snack bar near the village of Scauri serves cold beer and salads under a fishing net tied with floating coloured flags. At night they mix cocktails and turn up the music. Via Porto di Scauri, Scauri, +39 320 156 2300
Altamarea Located above Kayà Kayà, this sophisticated terrace restaurant serves modern takes on Pantescan classics, such as Nonna’s octopus with potato and bacio. I prefer the more traditional dishes, such as the Tunisian-inspired couscous. Via Scauri Porto 5, Scauri, +39 092 391 8115 Sesiventi On the island’s westernmost point and near tomb ruins, the domed rooftop of this bar is one of the best places to watch the sunset. Parco dei
Sesi e Muro Alto, Mursia, +39 327 661 1186 Emporio del Gusto In Pantelleria town, this shop sells all the essentials plus local and Italian wines, capers and cheeses, and ceramics by artist Susana de Simone. Via Napoli 97, Pantelleria, emporio-gusto.com
Stay
Sikelia Luxury Hotel Giulia Pazienza Gelmetti, a winemaker, former probasketballer and interior designer, employed renowned Pantesca architect Gabriella Giuntoli to create this 20-suite boutique hotel, transforming a handful of old dammusi into a luxurious hideaway in the hills between Scauri and Rekhale. Watch the sun set over Tunisia on a clear night from the rooftop of Pantelleria’s newest five-star hotel. Via Monastero, sikeliapantelleria.com
Club Levante Six freestanding guesthouses and a main house offer privacy and stunning views of the sunrise. It’s located on the eastern side of the island, above the famed Arco dell’Elefante, a rocky outcrop that resembles an elephant plunging its trunk into the sea. Vicolo Faraglione 42, clublevante.com
Destino Pantelleria This local online business rents cars and a handful of private dammusi, and helpful staff offer local tips and support on the island. destinopantelleria.com
Corte Pantesca These adjacent renovated dammusi on the western plain share a pool and can be rented separately or together. Via Scirafi, Madonna delle Grazie, villaitaly.it
Tenuta Borgia Make like Tilda Swinton and rent part, or all, of this stylish and sprawling dammuso complex in the south-west, which starred in A Bigger Splash. Contrada Salto La Vecchia, tenutaborgia.it