Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

- Recipes ALEX ELLIOTT-HOWERY & JAIMEE EDWARDS Photograph­y CATH MUSCAT Styling VANESSA AUSTIN

Cornersmit­h’s Alex ElliottHow­ery and Jaimee Edwards share recipes and clever ideas to minimise food waste.

Soft herbs

We define soft herbs as being, well, soft… with soft leaves and edible stems. These herbs have a higher water content than other herbs and are lower in aromatic oils. For this reason, they tend to have less flavour when dried, so use them fresh and in abundance.

For the most part, we add soft herbs at the end of cooking to retain their flavour – think of them as a way to liven and freshen up cooked meals. We also add them by the bunch to salads, and Alex uses every kind of soft herb (even the limp, neglected bunches at the bottom of the crisper) to make a whole spectrum of versatile green sauces and pestos. Like all leafy vegetables, soft herbs are high in vitamins A, C and K, and each herb is also prized for its medicinal properties, which we extract in home-brewed healing teas.

Soft green herbs are very delicate and need to be cared for – unfortunat­ely, neglect means they are one of the most wasted ingredient­s bought at the supermarke­t. If you can, buy small amounts regularly and please try not to buy herbs wrapped in plastic. Smaller grocers with a high turnover will often sell herbs in bunches without plastic. Even better, grow your own herbs and pick the leaves as you need them.

You can store herbs in a glass of water on the benchtop or in the fridge for a few days. For longer storage, gently wrap them in a slightly damp tea towel, then place in a bag or airtight container in the fridge for 5-7 days. Check on them daily. Mint and basil are the exception here, as their tender, warmth-loving leaves turn black in the cold. Cut stems should be stored in a glass of water in dappled light on the benchtop. Make sure there are no leaves below the water level.

SALSA VERDE

This is lovely with ricotta or goat’s cheese on toast, oily fish, a lentil stew or roasted carrots. Or add green chillies and a pinch of ground cumin, coriander and paprika, and serve with tacos or on tortillas.

Place 75gm herbs, such as parsley, dill, mint, basil or fennel fronds in a food processor with 2 small garlic cloves, ⅓ cup (75gm) chopped pickles such as cucumber, dill pickle, fennel or jalapeños, 2 tbsp pickle juice, 2 tbsp capers or the zest and juice of 1 lemon or lime, a pinch of chilli flakes (or a Thai green chilli if you like heat) and ¼ tsp salt, and pulse until roughly chopped. Taste and balance the flavours with more salt, extra chilli or a pinch of sugar, if needed. Add ⅓ cup (80ml) olive oil and blitz until just combined. To make it by hand, finely chop the ingredient­s, then combine in a bowl with the oil. Refrigerat­e in a jar or container for up to 10 days. Makes about 1 cup.

SPICY GREEN THAI-STYLE SAUCE

Stir through noodle salads or serve with seafood or rice-paper rolls.

In a food processor, place

1 cup (50gm) coriander leaves and stems, 1 tbsp grated ginger, 1 garlic clove, 1-2 long green chillies, 2 tbsp fish sauce,

2 tsp caster sugar, ¼ tsp salt and the zest and juice of 1 lime. Blitz until chopped but not as smooth as a pesto. If you want to make this a dipping sauce, loosen the mixture with about 1 tbsp vegetable oil or more fish sauce. It will keep in a jar in the fridge for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1 cup.

PESTO

Alex believes a house is not a home without pesto in the fridge. Use this base recipe to make a pesto out of any small amount of leftover greens.

Place 80gm herb leaves or greens, 40gm nuts or seeds, 1 garlic clove, 40gm grated parmesan (if using) and a pinch or two of salt in a food processor and blitz to a paste. With the motor running, add 100-150ml olive oil until well combined. Transfer to a clean jar and store in the fridge for up to 10 days. Makes about 1 cup.

Combinatio­ns we like

• Parsley, walnut, lemon zest and 1 tbsp lemon juice

• Celery leaves, cashews and parmesan

• Kale, sunflower seeds and parmesan

CHIMICHURR­I

This Argentinia­n herb sauce is used in cooking and as a table condiment for grilled meats. At Cornersmit­h, we make our own version whenever we have a load of coriander, dill and parsley stems that we don’t want to throw out. This recipe comes from our friend and long-time chef, Sabine. It’s an absolute winner and we make it almost every week to top tacos and pitas, drizzle over roasted vegetables, marinate chicken or serve with grilled fish. Add a few tablespoon­s to a salad dressing for your next slaw.

Place about 80gm herb leaves and stems (use one type or a mix of coriander, parsley and dill) in a food processor with ½ tsp cumin seeds, 1 chopped garlic clove, 2 tbsp red wine vinegar, ¼ tsp salt and a pinch of chilli flakes if you want a little heat. Blend to a paste, then with the motor running, add 100ml olive oil until combined. Transfer to a jar or container, cover with oil and seal. Refrigerat­e for up to 2 weeks. Makes about 1 cup.

THE BEST GREEN SAUCE

This recipe, from our friend Margi, takes about 15 minutes to make and adds plenty of colour and a hit of iron to your plate. It’s great to have in the fridge for quick, nutritious meals and is a wonderful way to use up forgotten greens.

Steam 1 bunch English spinach (stems and all) or ½ bunch silverbeet leaves (remove stems and reserve for another recipe) in a large saucepan, covered, over low heat. Once soft, turn off the heat and allow to cool. Transfer to a food processor with 1 chopped garlic clove,

60ml (¼ cup) olive oil, 1 tsp plain flour and ¼ tsp salt and black pepper. Whiz until blended, then add a slurp of milk or cream and whiz again until smooth. If it doesn’t look smooth enough, add some more oil and whiz some more. Taste, adjust the seasoning and transfer to a jar or container. Refrigerat­e for up to 4 days. Makes about 200ml.

Green eggs

Add 2 tbsp green sauce to 2 eggs and whisk with a pinch of salt and pepper. Cook in a saucepan with a knob of butter over low heat until scrambled. Serve on toast.

Green pasta

To make a simple pasta sauce combine 60ml (¼ cup) green sauce with 2 tbsp cream, a pinch of salt and pepper, lemon zest and chilli flakes.

Green toast

Mash a few tablespoon­s of green sauce with avocado, then spread on toast and top with crumbled feta and fresh herbs.

Green marinade

Combine equal parts natural or Greek-style yoghurt and green sauce with some extra crushed garlic and a squeeze of lemon and use as a marinade for chicken thighs or fish.

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 ??  ?? Cornersmit­h’s Alex Elliott-Howery (left) and Jaimee Edwards.
Cornersmit­h’s Alex Elliott-Howery (left) and Jaimee Edwards.
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