NEW IN TOWN
Opening a new restaurant is always challenging. Opening a new restaurant and weathering the storm of 2020 requires Herculean levels of grit, determination and resilience. We toast the best new openings around Australia from the past 12 months.
Maha Bar
Opened February 2020
Who Shane Delia
Vibe Handsome and romantic modern Middle Eastern bar.
Verdict
Is Shane Delia’s gorgeous, glamorous Collingwood bar his best work yet? The harissa and turmeric braised beef-stuffed borek bun, arak pickled cucumbers and brilliant hummus served with maple-roasted carrots would say yes. Service is great too, as is the on-theme wine list with its Lebanese wine producers and selection of raki and arak.
86 Smith St, Collingwood, (03) 9417 3531, mahabar.com.au
Gimlet at Cavendish House
Opened June 2020
Who Andrew McConnell
Vibe New York-style French bar and bistro given a McConnell makeover.
Verdict
The 10 minutes it was allowed to open in June gave a tantalising glimpse of chic Gimlet’s potential – a big, beautiful Manhattan-referencing room with a central bar, leather booths and a menu that mixes marron with saffron rice, wood-fired flatbread with clams and chilli, house-made gelati and great cocktails – Gimlets, of course, alongside Leanne Altman’s superb wine list.
33 Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9277 9777, gimlet.melbourne
Lagoon Dining
Opened November 2019
Who Chris Lerch, Keat Lee and Ned Trumble (co-owners) Vibe Smart, tasty Melb-Asian in the heart of Little Italy.
Verdict
A crack team of Ezard alumni joined forces at this modern pan-Asian diner to great, super-tasty effect. Whitewashed brick walls, a black granite bar and a focal-point open kitchen play backdrop to a menu of playful, vibrant dishes including not-to-be-missed hot-and-sour potatoes to Xinjiang-spiced lamb ribs and a vibrant mango pudding. There’s great wine too and must-do, theme-appropriate cocktails.
263 Lygon St, Carlton, (03) 9349 1939, lagoondining.com
Omnia
Opened November 2019
Who Larry Kestelman (owner) and Stephen Nairn (chef) Vibe Casual high-end bistro for local scenesters.
Verdict
Chef Stephen Nairn cooks some of the best, most finessed bistro food in town – pastry cigars filled with smoked ocean trout and lemon crème fraîche, Gruyère custard tart with marinated capsicum, dry-aged pork belly with roasted peach – in a huge, surprisingly well-serviced room kitted out for comfort and South Ya Ya razzle dazzle. A voluminous wine list completes the picture. 625 Chapel St, South Yarra, (03) 8080 8080, omniabistro.com.au
The Hardware Club
Opened November 2019
Who Andrea Ceriani (co-owner) and Nicola Dusi (chef and co-owner) Vibe Retro cool Melb-Italian.
Verdict
It’s flavour over dogma at this stylish retro diner that delivers northern Italian trattoria goods through a distinctly Melbourne filter. Chef Nicola Dusi combines big flavours with an impressively deft sense of balance – Brussels sprouts elevated by tonnato sauce; radicchio tossed with honey, walnuts and lentils; ravioli stuffed with toe-curlingly good ossobuco – plus solid Italian wine and thoroughly good-natured service. Upstairs, 43 Hardware Lane, Melbourne, (03) 9670 1110, thehardwareclub.com
From far left: Beef buns and arak at Maha Bar; Tedesca Osteria’s welcoming dining room; fried sardines at The Hardware Club.