Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

Jung Sung, Chippendal­e, NSW

THE LATEST FROM CHEFS AND RESTAURANT­S AROUND AUSTRALIA

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SYDNEY

Chippendal­e’s Kensington Street has welcomed Jung Sung, a sleek, modern Korean-leaning destinatio­n restaurant. Korean-born, New York-trained, now Sydney-based chef Insup Kim, earned his stripes cooking at the Shangri-La Sydney and Del Posto in New York.

Here you’ll find him serving bowls of bibimbap with soy-marinated Moreton Bay bug, puffed grains, seaweed and egg, alongside butter-poached bug with crustacean bisque and gochujang aïoli; while dessert sees a corn cob-shaped serve of sweet corn custard spiked with doenjang with caramelise­d pistachios.

Korean food in Sydney is being further repped by husband-and-wife duo Illa Kim and Daero Lee, via Soul Deli. After the couple pivoted their more formal Soul Dining restaurant to do rice bowls, they were inspired to open a second venue, focused as a deli and café in Surry Hills. Here, you’ll find bottles of hot sauce, pre-made meals, jars of pickles and at least three types of kimchi ready to take home. You can also sit in and order comforting bowls of soy bean stew with house-made tofu and white kimchi, plus excellent fried chicken and rice bowls, crowned with pickles, galbi (marinated beef short rib) and soft-boiled egg.

Darlinghur­st has welcomed a new bakehouse, All Purpose Bakery. Chef Mat Lindsay (Ester and Poly) has joined forces with restaurate­ur and hotelier Russell Beard (Paramount House Hotel), baker Dougal Muffet (most recently at Picco Leo) and Paramount House Hotel founder Ping Jin Ng, to open a new bakery and licensed café.

In Paddington another mash-up of collaborat­ive talent has arrived with the double-hitter of Porcine and P&V Wine &

Liquor. The second outpost of the Newtown bottle shop has impressed locals with its enthusiast­ic selection of natural wines, which can be enjoyed in the courtyard, or taken upstairs to Porcine, the new French-leaning bistro from Nik Hill (The Old Fitz) and Harry Levy (Don Peppino’s). Très bien!

MELBOURNE

After opening briefly in June 2020,

Golda has reopened permanentl­y, located opposite Prahran Market. Chef Rotem Papo worked at Catit in Tel Aviv, before moving to Australia to work at L’Hôtel Gitan and Bar Lourinhã, and has worked with owner Adam Faigen to develop a menu that reflects modern Israeli cooking.

While Bar Saracen closed in February, punters will be pleased to find more Middle Eastern food from chef Tom Sarafian (including his much-loved hummus with spanner crab and prawns) at Little Andorra in Carlton North.

Nearby, Al Dente Enoteca has opened, headed up by Andrea Vignali and Davide Bonadiman (both formerly Grossi Florentino) and Alessandro Luppolo (former pastry chef at Attica). After successful­ly making and delivering pasta during lockdown (including the much loved tortellini cacio e pepe) the Italian trio are thrilled to now have their own dining room, offering a six-course set menu on Friday and Saturday nights, as well as Sunday lunch.

Finally, Appellatio­n is a new neighbourh­ood wine bar in Armadale. Head sommelier Jenna Phillipott (Dinner by Heston and The Recreation) is behind the wine list while head chef Steven Harry (ex-Cumulus Inc) is dishing out snacks like chicken boudin hot dogs with onion and plum ketchup; and smoked kangaroo tartare soldiers.

TASMANIA

The ambitious and fire-focused Van

Bone has opened in Marion Bay. Executive chef Tim Hardy spent time working at Vasse Felix in Margaret River, The Lake House in Daylesford and Brae in Birregurra, and will work with produce from the surroundin­g garden grounds, cooking with wood-fired ovens and a charcoal grill. Hardy is flanked by the multi-talented restaurant manager Laura Stucken (who has a background in interior architectu­re and designed the building with the dining experience in mind) and market gardener and grounds manager Joe Nalder.

WESTERN AUSTRALIA

Dunsboroug­h has welcomed one of the town’s first dedicated wine bars. Lady Lola is bringing European sensibilit­ies down south, with co-owners Michelle Forbes (ex-Ritz Carlton, Cafe Sydney and The Subiaco Hotel) and Nel Antonic curating a wine list of local minimal interventi­on heroes and internatio­nal performers, along with plates of just-sliced salumi and oysters. Back in the big smoke, Pingping Poh has been appointed as the first female executive chef at Crown Perth’s Nobu – which will see her oversee a team of 33 as she heads up one of Perth’s most in-demand restaurant­s.

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 ??  ?? Clockwise from left: Bibimbap and butterpoac­hed bug at Jung Sung; the dining room at Jung Sung; Soul Deli’s Daero Lee and Illa Kim; pork schnitzel with mushroom sauce and rice at Soul Deli.
Clockwise from left: Bibimbap and butterpoac­hed bug at Jung Sung; the dining room at Jung Sung; Soul Deli’s Daero Lee and Illa Kim; pork schnitzel with mushroom sauce and rice at Soul Deli.
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Andrea Vignali prepares fresh pasta at Al Dente Enoteca; Appellatio­n’s duck liver and breast cured and smoked with organic buckwheat; Tasmania’s Van Bone; and kingfish at Lady Lola.
Clockwise from left: Andrea Vignali prepares fresh pasta at Al Dente Enoteca; Appellatio­n’s duck liver and breast cured and smoked with organic buckwheat; Tasmania’s Van Bone; and kingfish at Lady Lola.
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