Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

Sid Sahrawat

Sidart, Cassia and Sid at The French Café, Auckland

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Splitting time between his three restaurant­s – Sidart, Cassia and Sid at The French Café – Sid Sahrawat’s adaptabili­ty has been key to his success. Following a stint as head chef at The Grove – where many of Auckland’s top chefs had their start – his first solo venture was Sidart, a fine diner hidden at the back of a shopping arcade, with views of the city. Cassia came next, serving robust dishes from the regions of Sahrawat’s native India. It’s modern, but the flavours are familiar and staples such as rice and naan are clearly made by expert hands. In 2018, he and his wife Chand – operations manager of the restaurant­s – took over Auckland institutio­n The French Café, one of the most loved icons in the city.

True to form, they switched up their concepts and staff to accommodat­e the third restaurant, moving the food from Sidart to The French Café; while Sidart turned to focus on traditiona­l Indian flavours, combined with the clever cooking techniques Sahrawat is known for. Here they forgo the stuffiness sometimes associated with formal dining, without sacrificin­g attention to detail. “We are on the creative edge,” says Sahrawat, “always pushing the envelope while using products that are as local as possible. Our food style has changed so much over the past few years, it’s been interestin­g how a lot of chefs are coming back to their roots.”

Imported spices excluded, Sahrawat is dedicated to using only local ingredient­s, making menu developmen­t critical and the food more focused. He is supportive of his team, encouragin­g them to move between restaurant­s, travel and gain new skills. Many have gone to work at some of Auckland’s most exciting new restaurant­s – and for that, the city is grateful.

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