WINE COUNTRY
A unique climate delivers vibrant, intense wines in the Hilltops region, writes SAMANTHA PAYNE.
Hilltops, NSW.
The Hilltops region surrounds the township of Young in southern New South Wales, which boasts the unofficial title of “cherry capital of Australia” (although Orange might have something to say about that). But what is undisputed by both winemakers and drinkers alike is the incredible quality of new wave wines coming out of the region.
Making up just two per cent of vineyards in New South Wales, the region is proving small but mighty when it comes to wine production, delivering quality over quantity.
With a moderate daytime temperature range that is perfect for drawing out the ripening process, the Hilltops region delivers wines that share one common trait, according to Dr Brian Freeman of Freeman Vineyards – “an intensity of flavour”. What makes the region so unique is the mesoclimates across the area as a whole, as well as individual vineyard sites.
“We can see a 7 to 8 degree temperature variation from the top of the hill on our site to the bottom, which makes site selection in the area so critical,” explains Dr Freeman.
This diversity of climates has created an opportunity to plant a wide range of exciting grape varieties for Australia. Dr Freeman explains, “the temperature and climate have very similar notes to Italy, making it perfect for these slower ripening Italian varieties like nebbiolo, sangiovese, rondinella and corvina.”
But it’s not just the winemakers and growers based in the region that can see the appeal of its fruit; other New South Wales winemakers have awoken to the outstanding quality of Hilltops grapes. Bryan Martin at Ravensworth is using nebbiolo from the region, while Sam Leyshon from Yass winery Mallaluka consistently sources a range of fruit not only from the Freeman vineyards but also from vineyards across New South Wales and interstate.
Gundagai-based winemaker Nick Spencer recognises the diversity of the Hilltops climate as a driving force for innovation within New South Wales wine. “It’s one of those regions that can grow just about anything – you name a variety, and it can grow there,” he explains.
“It’s the one region in New South Wales that if you want something interesting, that’s where you go.”
With the three regions of Canberra District, Hilltops and Gundagai all bordering one another, you might expect a common style or thread that ties them all together. But again, Spencer agrees with Dr Freeman that it comes down to the micro-climates within the regions that define each particular producer. “The big difference I see in Hilltops, the fruit seems to be seen as juicer with more vibrancy and intensity, say, as opposed to Canberra fruit. But it’s so hard to quantify the style as a whole.”
The Wiradjuri people are the traditional custodians of the Hilltops region and its main town of Young. They are known as the “people of the three rivers” as their land borders the Macquarie, Lachlan and Murrumbidgee rivers. Their connection to the land spans across most of New South Wales (and has done for more than 60,000 years), making the Wiradjuri nation the largest cultural footprint in New South Wales and second largest in Australia.