BEST NEW RESTAURANT
NSW A’MARE, SYDNEY
Brought to us by Italian power couple Alessandro and Anna Pavoni (Ormeggio at The Spit), a’Mare is the shining jewel in Crown Sydney’s dining portfolio. With uninterrupted views of Barangaroo’s shimmering bay and interiors inspired by lavish palazzos, there’s no better spot to sip sangiovese and swoon over squid-ink risotto. To diners’ delight, dinner also comes with a show – vibrant basil pesto is made tableside in a large Carrara marble mortar; while gelato is scooped and topped in front of your eyes. It’s a sleek experience that justifies the high price tag.
In short: An elegant affair.
NSW HO JIAK TOWN HALL, SYDNEY
Two words perfectly describe Ho Jiak’s new Town Hall location: funky and fresh. Funky, for the rich and wonderfully smoky flavours we’ve come to love about Malaysian cuisine. And fresh, because who knew that marron or truffle would work so well in say a char koay teow or indomie? Ho Jiak’s Town Hall outpost has been dubbed chef and co-owner Junda Khoo’s playground, where he puts bold twists on traditional dishes and family favourites. Paired with a buzzy hawker atmosphere, friendly service and a banging cocktail list, good times are guaranteed.
In short: Exhilarating eats.
NSW PORCINE, SYDNEY
While the changing menu may seem intimidating on paper (or chalkboard) at Porcine – chopped tongue, whole pig’s head terrine, black pudding – it’s the exact opposite on the palate. Combining French classics with laidback British pub vibes, delicious porky dishes are the aim of the game here but sit comfortably alongside other classics like smoked eel and potato gratin, and wild rabbit pithiviers. Brought to you by an all-star cast – Nik Hill (The Old Fitz), Harry Levy (Don Peppino’s) and Matt Fitzgerald (Solotel Group) – you’ll want to pay your respects at this altar for the humble swine. In short: A porky palace.
VIC GIMLET, MELBOURNE
With the number of successful Andrew McConnell restaurants in Melbourne, becoming a bit blasé about the privilege of another one might be par for the course. But then Gimlet arrived beautiful and fully formed, giving off a palpable buzz even when pandemic-induced restrictions were at their most rigorous. It’s a reminder both of why we love restaurants and how they make life better. Gimlet pays equal attention to food, booze, service and décor. It’s a brilliant all-rounder and Melbourne is so lucky to have it.
In short: Instant classic.
VIC ARU, MELBOURNE
Khanh Nguyen first made Melbourne diners sit up and take notice with Sunda. At Sunda’s sibling, the big, bold and beautiful Aru, he’s turning more heads as he continues to emphatically demolish the notion that fusion-cooking is a dirty word. Nguyen weaves together multiple, seemingly disparate elements – Vietnamese home cooking, Indigenous Australian ingredients, classic French and Malaysian techniques – in often miraculously delicious combinations, on a lengthy menu that will have the decision-phobic calling for their therapists.
In short: Dazzlingly original.
SA AURORA, ADELAIDE
It would be a rare fine-dining experience these days without mention of local produce and sustainability.
But Adelaide’s Aurora is leaps and bounds ahead on the ethical path, at the same time delivering some of the best and most exciting food in South Australia. It’s part of the social enterprise Light, a not-for-profit group bringing together musicians, artists, technology and hospitality, with a determination to give back to the community. Head chef Brendan Wessels has pulled together a menu of diverse influences – including his own South African vibe – and delivers excellence with a side of serious benevolence.
In short: Feel good food.
ACT CORELLA BAR & RESTAURANT, CANBERRA
Trying to describe the difference between a wine bar and a restaurant is almost as difficult as defining “Australian cuisine”, but Canberra’s bright newcomer Corella takes a confident stab at both with its cheery wine-buddying plates sprinkled with hits of both native ingredients and nostalgia. Nearby wineries and Australian distilleries are celebrated on the sharp drinks list; the clever cocktails evoking the same spirit as a menu that might include Davidson plum teriyaki, bush tomato balsamic and Bundy Rum ice-cream.
In short: Australia on a plate.
QLD ELSKA, BRISBANE
Opening any restaurant during a pandemic is courageous. Opening a progressive, dégustation-only fine diner with 12 seats? That’s a whole different kettle of fish. Especially if you add in a mission statement that involves showcasing under-used native ingredients by employing Scandinavian methods and techniques. On paper, certainly, it’s not the most commercially promising of scenarios. Lucky for diners then that Elska owners, chef Nathan Dunnell and Danish expat wife Freja, ignored naysayers and persisted – creating Brisbane’s most unlikely but cleverest new tasting menu.
In short: Wildly inspirational.
TAS VAN BONE, MARION BAY
Building a restaurant with a view as spectacular as the one from Van Bone is a clear statement of confidence that the food can compete with the scenery. Chef Timothy Hardy’s confidence is not misplaced. What’s happening on the plate in his beautifully minimalist dining room – ingredients pulled from nearby field and ocean, many flavoured with char and smoke from the wood fire – is small scale and artisan but enhanced by the grand view, not diminished by it. In short: Flavour-enhanced view.