Sáng by Mabasa
98 Fitzroy St,
Surry Hills
(02) 9331 5175 sangbymabasa.com.au
Chefs Seung-kee Son & Jin-sun Son
Price guide $$$ Bookings Recommended Wheelchair access No
Sáng by Mabasa proves that the best things come in small packages.
This petite 24-seat restaurant in Surry Hills may seem inconspicuous, but its food most certainly isn’t. Led by self-taught chefs and husband and wife duo Seung-kee Son and Jin-sun Son, with their son Kenny Yong-soo Son and his wife Youmee Jeon running the front of house,
Sáng is a celebration of Korean cuisine – specifically the Korean notion of “son-mat”, which translates to “hand taste”. Striking the perfect balance between comforting and cool, each dish honours tradition but is firmly rooted in the here and now. There’s yassam – refreshingly delicate wraps made with pickled white radish, cucumber and nashi pear; nokdu jeon – a golden mung bean pancake; and yangnyeom KFC – audibly crisp Korean fried chicken. Not to mention standard-setting bibimbap and jjigae, alongside playful lunch specials that change daily. Spicy, sweet and fermented flavours combine with truckloads of texture and a refined touch in a bid to expand the definition of Korean dining in Australia.
Coogee Pavillion, 130a Beach St, Coogee
(02) 9114 7383 merivale.com/unamas
Chefs Jordan Toft & Andrew Wandless Price guide $$ Bookings Recommended Wheelchair access Yes
What was intended to be the smaller, more casual little sister to Merivale’s grandest dining room, inadvertently stole the show when they opened in tandem in early 2020. Together with cocktail bar Will’s, Una Más shares the same entrance and amenities as Mimi’s (including Sydney’s most glamorous bathrooms). But where Mimi’s mirrors the successful template of Merivale fine-diners (Fred’s, Bert’s, Hotel Centennial), Una Más has a personality and atmosphere all of her own. Polished yet natural, Una Más captures the breezy spirit of its beachfront locale, complemented by a selection of equally breezy Mediterranean small plates. A succinct menu is bolstered by daily specials, ensuring there’s always something new to explore, alongside familiar favourites (the octopus with fermented habanero is essential ordering).
Add to that natural-leaning wines and spectacular beachfront views and
Una Más easily takes the crown for cool, casual dining in the harbour city.