Gourmet Traveller (Australia)

Gerard’s Bistro

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Gerard’s Lane, 14/15 James St, Fortitude Valley (07) 3852 3822 gerardsbis­tro.com.au Chef Adam Wolfers

Price guide $$$ Bookings Recommende­d

Wheelchair access Yes

In pursuit of flavour? Gerard’s kitchen draws inspiratio­n from its owners’ Lebanese heritage but also from chef Adam Wolfers’ Sephardic and Ashkenazi roots. This rich multi-layered mix is boosted with an arsenal of techniques – from coal-grilling to fermentati­on and beyond. A kibbeh snack – crafted from slipper lobster, not the more usual minced meats – sums it up tastily; the sweet oceanic tumble brightened with blood lime and arrayed on a savoury walnut biscuit. Punchy coriander chutney enlivens sweet bar cod, offset by the tang of tiny green tomatoes; coal blistered eggplant is a silken base for crab-a-ganoush – a fluffy spanner crab spin on the dip. Wolfers’ breads are exceptiona­l. Service can sometimes be uneven but the pace is smooth, while Mid-century inspired interiors are evergreen. Just like the strawberry booza – a surprising­ly classic vibe with its sesame tuile and piped halva cream. Expect a drinks list as cliché-free as the rest of this unique game-changer.

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